A SEASIDE capital city a short flight from the UK, with no council tax or TV licence fees and you can eat outside in winter… what’s not to like?
That’s the score in my adopted home town which I moved to from the UK just over 11 years ago.
Though it’s Europe’s smallest capital, Malta’s Valetta squeezes in 320 monuments and over two dozen churches into an area half the size of Hyde Park with more history per square metre than anywhere else on the Med.
But Valletta’s more than just a pretty face.
Since it was crowned the European Capital of Culture in 2018, the once-sleepy capital has roared back to life with millions of euros invested in attractions, architecture and nightlife.
Living here has its perks. I pay no council tax, no TV licence, and car insurance costs are a fraction of what I used to pay in the UK.
Public transport is free, a recent vet check-up for my cat cost just €25 (£21.74), and with 300 days of sunshine a year, I’ve never needed the heating or a tumble dryer.
Life doesn’t grind to a halt in winter either.
In summer, it’s all alfresco dining and harbour views; in December, the city gate glows with a Christmas market – and you can still enjoy a lunch outside in the sun.
Come February, Carnival takes over with parades and costumes, and later the festas, Malta’s patron-saint celebrations, light up the streets with fireworks, brass bands and confetti.
Valletta knows how to celebrate, and food plays a big part.
For a real taste of Malta, start underground at Nenu the Artisan Baker that is hidden in a vault on one of the city’s backstreets, where even locals flock for the nation’s much-loved ftira bread.
Its founder, Carmel Debono, known as Nenu, was born into a family of Qormi bakers in the 1950s and still fires up a 100-year-old oven to make traditional Maltese loaves like Ħobża tal-Malti and ftajjar.
It’s a slice of Maltese history, served the old-fashioned way.
Then head down to the Valletta Waterfront, where locals fill the tables, especially for Sunday lunch.
Stop at Tribelli, a former warehouse from the 1600s turned into a family-run Maltese restaurant serving traditional dishes like rabbit stew, fried pasta and platters of local cheeses, sausages and bigilla, a broad bean dip.
Order a bottle of Maltese wine and sit on an outside table with one of the city’s best views of the Grand Harbour.
If looking for more of a quick bite, Valletta’s full of cheap eats.
Grab a pastizz, a golden, flaky pastry filled with ricotta or mushy peas – at under a euro each, they’re the best bargain in town and loved by everyone from builders to bankers.
Once stomachs have been lined, it’s time to head to Strait Street, which was originally Valletta’s red-light and sailors’ quarter.
Now lined with glitzy neon signs and balconies strung with fairy lights, it’s instead home to vintage shopfronts and cocktail bars like Tico Tico and Yard 32.
It’s also worth making a pit stop at The Pub, the tiny watering hole where actor Oliver Reed died while filming Gladiator.
The staff even wear his legendary last bar order on their T-shirts.
Public buses in Malta are free for residents, but the city is so compact that tourists can cover most of it on foot.
Don’t miss St John’s Co-Cathedral with its extraordinary Baroque interior, or the Upper Barrakka Gardens overlooking the Grand Harbour.
Day trips are easy too, with ferries running to the Three Cities or the sister island of Gozo.
Accommodation covers the full spectrum. At the luxury end, you’ve got five-star hotels like The Phoenicia Malta and Iniala Harbour House, both beautifully restored historic properties.
But there are also dozens of boutique hotels, guesthouses and Airbnbs that keep things affordable.
Valletta is a far cry from the all-inclusive coastal resorts that once put Malta on the package-holiday map, but you can still get very affordable return flights from £40 to the UK.
With all this going on, it’s little wonder Valletta’s just been crowned the world’s best city by Condé Nast Traveller.
Ten years on, I still pinch myself, sipping a glass of local Girgentina wine up in a city rooftop bar, with the UK reachable in three hours on a plane, but feeling like a lifetime away.