WHEN it comes to enjoying Halloween, the team at Copenhagen’s Tivoli Gardens don’t cut corners.
Spiders, cobwebs, witches’ hats, scarecrows, hay bales and thousands of pumpkins of all shapes, sizes and colours surrounded the stalls, rides and attractions.
But I could not help thinking that when it’s all over, someone’s got a mammoth clear-up job.
The Danish capital city’s famous amusement park, which is right in the centre, closes for two weeks while a team of more than 50 gardeners, designers, decorators, stagehands, crane operators, electricians and carpenters transform it into a spooky wonderland.
And as you would expect from the Danes, it’s all done very tastefully — and sustainably.
The 22,000 pumpkins are grown in Denmark, on the island of Samso, where the climate is spot on.
The larger ones are entries for the annual Danish Giant Pumpkin Championship, hosted by the park.
Afterwards, the prize pumpkins are given to Copenhagen Zoo, where apparently the elephants are particularly fond of them.
This year is the 20th anniversary of Tivoli’s Halloween festivities and around half a million people are expected to walk through the gates before the season ends on November 2.
To avoid the queues, I would suggest going earlier in the day to do the most popular rides, but make sure you stay until dusk to get the full effects of the flickering jack-o’-lanterns.
Little ones will love the treasure hunt and pumpkin-carving workshops, while older kids will enjoy being scared — but not too much — in Villa Vendetta, where actors jump out from the shadows.
The Haunted House wasn’t quite frightening enough for my teenage son, but the gravity-defying loops of The Demon rollercoaster took his breath away.
‘Getting cosy’
A day at Tivoli was part of the compromise when we told him he’d be missing the usual trick-or-treating with mates to join his parents on an October city break.
Autumn is the perfect time to visit Copenhagen. It’s when the leaves turn, the nights draw in and the “hygge” levels rise.
If you haven’t heard of hygge (pronounced hoo-ga), it is the Danish concept of “getting cosy” — and we’d come to the capital to get a dose of it.
Flights generally cost less after the summer too, and once you are here, getting around is cheap and easy.
The Metro system only has four lines and there are also hop-on, hop-off buses and water buses (small ferries).
We purchased Copenhagen Cards, which give you free public transport plus entry to 87 attractions.
They even cover the metro or train from the airport, which only takes about 15 minutes to the city centre.
As well as getting free entrance into Tivoli (rides and attractions cost extra) we used our Copenhagen Card to take a sightseeing cruise up the river, past the famous Little Mermaid statue (it really is tiny), the royal palace, funky house boats and more.
Cardamom buns
Cruises start from Nyhavn, the city’s pretty harbour with brightly-coloured houses, where we warmed up afterwards with a cup of Glogg, a sweet mulled wine.
We took the water bus to Contemporary Copenhagen to enjoy the art installations and we joined the locals cycling around the three city lakes at Soerne.
The bikes were hired from our hotel, Charlottehaven, which also happens to be a short walk from one of the city’s best bakeries, Juno. The delicious cardamom buns were well worth queuing for.
Eating out in Copenhagen isn’t cheap but there’s a growing number of communal dining venues, a concept known as faellesspisning, which are really good value.
In just a few days we’d packed a lot in and had fallen in love with Copenhagen, a compact and friendly city where everything is within easy access, even a 20-acre theme park
We went to Kanalhuset (the Canal House) in Christianshavn and joined a table full of locals for a simple but very tasty meal for around £16 each.
There’s only one choice each night (you can check what’s on the menu on the website) but they will always do a vegetarian option on request.
Everyone turns up at 6.30pm for drinks in the bar and then joins one of the large tables in the restaurant for dinner at 7pm.
We made friends with a lovely Danish family celebrating their mum’s birthday. Pretty much all the locals here speak excellent English, so it was easy to chat.
In just a few days we’d packed a lot in and had fallen in love with Copenhagen, a compact and friendly city where everything is within easy access, even a 20-acre theme park.
Once the Halloween festivities are over, Tivoli closes again for two weeks so that all the pumpkins can be replaced with fairy lights, an ice-skating rink and hundreds of Christmas trees.
Now we need to go back and experience Christmas hygge-style.
GO: Copenhagen
GETTING THERE: Fly to Copenhagen from Gatwick, Manchester and Bristol with fares from £23.99 one way in December.
See easyjet.com
STAYING THERE: Charlottehaven Aparthotel has rooms from £190.
See charlottehaven.com/dk/en/.
OUT & ABOUT: A 24-hour Copenhagen Card costs £66 for adults and £45 for children aged 12-15.
Kids 11 and under are free.
You can also buy cards for 48, 72, 96 or 120 hours.
See copenhagencard.com.