This palatial hacienda dating to 1616 is wonderfully maintained as a restaurant that feels like the prototype setting for a noirish telenovela, where sleek-haired businessmen and heirs negotiate their fortunes and the future of the country over hours consumed with cigars and tequila. San Angel Inn is a destination for upper-crust locals attracted to its unabashedly old-school approach to food, cocktails and service. Everyone here swears by the stately margarita service or a frosty martini, the kind that conjures images of Prohibition-era afternoons spent betting on the races in Tijuana. The menu feels like a journey over the greatest hits of classic Mexican fine dining: oysters, snails, escamoles and fideo seco with foie gras beckon as starters. Taco service is family style, in orders of three to eight, of rib-eye prime, arrachera, shrimp, lengua, duck, chicharrón and so on. Mains are Falstaffian, from lengua de res a la veracruzana to chateaubriand bouquetiere. The wine list leans heavily Mexican, followed by Spanish, Argentine, American and Chilean — just as it should be for this hemisphere.