THERE are some places that thrive in the summer, but others are best explored when there are crisp orange leaves on the ground, and the grass is littered with frost.
On my recent adventure to Northumberland, I discovered sprawling National Parks, living museums, quaint village and plenty of cosy pubs.
My adventure took me to the site of the former Sycamore Gap tree – the story that seemed to upset the entire nation.
The famous tree was mysteriously cut down in the middle of the night in September 2023. Something about the hateful environmental crime captured the public imagination globally.
Before and after pictures appeared in the media around the world and tears were shed.
It would later emerge that the 120-year-old specimen tree – which had featured in the 1991 Robin Hood film as well as countless holiday snaps – had been felled by two oddball friends as some kind of warped prank.
The pair were eventually jailed this summer for four years and three months each.
The episode initially seemed to spell the end of one of the North East’s greatest tourist attractions – but in fact it hasn’t.
The following year, the area earned nine per cent more from recreational visitors than it had before the tree was felled.
But if that makes it sound like the area is overrun with tourists, it isn’t. Not at all.
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Unlike rivals such as the Lake and Peak Districts or the Yorkshire Dales, rural Northumberland doesn’t have quite as much mass appeal and it’s big and desolate enough to absorb the visitors it does get, so seldom feels busy.
Autumn is a particularly good time to go because the landscape and vernal colour palette seem to blend harmoniously together.
If you go at low season (and now that half-term week has passed, that’s pretty much right now) you will find it feels most of the time as if you have the place to yourselves.
And it won’t cost much either – there’s excellent value for money.
Like the Sycamore Gap itself, much of what you will see is dotted along or near Hadrian’s Wall, the 2000-year-old fortification line that snakes its way up hill and down dale through all this glorious countryside.
And, of course, it joins up various other Roman sites that pepper the area with historic interest.
Our favourites were Vindolanda, an excavated village, the museum at Corbridge and the Temple of Mithras which has a counterpart in the buzzing heart of the City of London.
But naturally this one has a very different vibe as it’s out on its own on windswept moorland, miles from anywhere – and so superbly atmospheric.
We based ourselves in an Airbnb in converted outbuildings of a farm just outside the small town of Riding Mill, about 20 miles to the east of the Gap.
It was modestly priced but very pleasant and made an ideal base when motoring.
A couple of times we went east towards Newcastle or Beamish museum, with its charming recreation of streets and buildings from different periods.
We could also explore the coast, from the sweeping sands at Tynemouth to the more dramatic cliffs northwards.
Heading inland to the west it was more remote. Even at more managed spaces like the stunning National Trust park at Allen Banks, we scarcely saw another walker.
Our dogs loved it as much as we did. And after every walk we seemed to find ourselves conveniently close to a decent pub.
The area teems with them. I even compiled a top ten of the many boozers we went to during our week in Northumberland.
Here are John’s top 10 pubs in Northumberland…
1. Lord Crewe Arms, Blanchland – Ancient, spooky, cosy, perfect.
2. The Ship Inn, Low Newton – Understated gem on a gem of a beach
3. The Rat, Anick – Just a perfect country food pub.
4. The Kirkstyle Inn and Sportsman Rest, Brampton – Wild location, good food, well done.
5. The Pele, Corbridge – Not named after the footballer but the circa 1350 tower it is set in. Wonderful.
6. Crown Posada, Newcastle – Lavish and delightfully intact interiors.
7. The Free Trade Inn, Newcastle – Grog on the Tyne. Amazing cityscape view.
8. Langley Castle Hotel, Hexham – Surrounded by suits of armour.
9. The Tynemouth Castle Inn, Tynemouth – Art Deco seaside gorgeousness.
10. The Sun Inn, Beamish Museum, Stanley – Technically a fake pub in a theme park- but so well done
Pubs aside, there was still the question of actually visiting Sycamore Gap itself – or what’s left of it.
We had put this off as it felt a bit sad but we had to face it before leaving.
It’s a short and very scenic walk from the village of Once Brewed, up to and then along in parallel with the surprisingly intact Roman Wall.
And going back to the question of its surprisingly enduring popularity, we saw more people here than on any rural outing.
It was still not exactly crowded but busier – and you realised that others too wanted to pay tribute to the lost tree, whether that was with a selfie or a quiet thought or two.
Even in this remote corner we weren’t far from not one but two decent pubs: The Twice Brewed Inn at Bardon Mill and The Milecastle Inn at Haltwhistle, both of which were delightful.
Visiting here is a way of putting two fingers up at the vile pair who are now languishing in prison, it’s also an absolute treat.
Plus, find out more on the quaint UK town hiding ‘Disney for history buffs’ attraction that’s loved by Countryfile star.
If you want to head to the beach, check out the Northumberland coast that is one of the world’s trending destinations.