BRILLIANT sunlight flickered against a blue, cloudless sky. The weather couldn’t have been more perfect for my 10km hike around Derwentwater, the third largest lake in the Lake District.
Trundling along the grassy trail with a flask of coffee in hand, every direction I turned in offered impressive sights of sweeping mountaintops and the motionless body of water below.
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Breathtaking mountaintops and glassy waters make for a hiker’s havenCredit: UnknownThe newly refurbished Royal Oak is right in the middle of Keswick town centreCredit: chrisdorney
The views are simply spectacular and should have been reward enough for my valiant hiking efforts.
But I was already thinking about the pint waiting for me back at the newly refurbished Royal Oak.
Slap bang in the middle of Keswick, this pub with rooms re-opened only a few months ago following a £1million facelift by its owner, Thwaites. And what a good job they’ve done.
Downstairs, the bar area is full of cosy nooks with huge armchairs to relax in, while the dining area is awash with indoor plants and countryside- inspired touches that make it feel more like a home than a pub.
Add a roaring fireplace and dog-friendly bedrooms to the mix and you’ve got a proper ramblers’ paradise.
I was staying in one of the upper-floor bedrooms, where the piping-hot showers are a soothing antidote to aching muscles after tackling the surrounding hilly landscape.
Each of the 18 rooms reflects a similar ambience to the main pub, with rustic wooden headboards backing plump beds and autumnal coloured curtains that give the space a woodland feel.
Modern bathrooms feature fancy toiletries from Lake District company Bath House, while flat-screen smart TVs make it all too easy to enjoy a lazy lie-in.
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Make sure you don’t sleep too late, though, as you wouldn’t want to miss out on breakfast.
The kitchen dishes up cracking homemade grub, most of which is sourced locally. Think loaded fry-ups with fat, juicy sausages and pub classics like fish and chips with mushy peas.
I kept things simple at dinner with a 10oz rib-eye steak which came with a roasted vine tomato, mushroom, rocket and chunky chips that were very moreish – all washed down with a bottle of red.
If the food and decor aren’t enough of a selling point, then the location of the Royal Oak sure will be.
At the centre of a charming high street, the pub is within walking distance of quaint wine shops, boutique clothing stores and excellent bakeries, including the newly opened Snack Shack.
I’ve never seen more sausage rolls stacked in a window before! That was all the persuading I needed to buy one. A great idea – the pastry was buttery and flakey and the caramelised onion filling was a delicious touch.
The kitchen serves loaded fry-ups with fat, juicy sausagesCredit: Unknown
If you’re visiting on a Saturday, take a wander to Keswick market, where you’ll find stalls selling all sorts of local food, products – and more flat caps than you’d see in an old folks’ home.
If you prefer to carry on rambling, I’d recommend making the journey to Cat Bells fell.
But only if you’re up for a challenge, as the summit is equivalent in height to ten Big Bens stacked on top of one another. I reckon I was about seven high when I decided to give up.
People in the Lakes are made of sturdier stuff than I – it’s probably those sausage rolls.
SHOPPERS are pleading with Walkers after it changed its blue salt sachets in crisp packets to light-coloured ones, making them hard to find.
The small bags are included in the brand’s popular “Salt & Shake” crisps to allow fans to sprinkle over their own seasoning.
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Foodies are furious after Walkers made a change to its Salt & Shake crisps
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The new salt packet colour makes it difficult to find
But lately production problems have meant that the traditional blue bags have been changed to a see-through white colour.
One fan complained on the Tesco website: “I took several crisps into my mouth as there was no blue salt packet amongst them. However, I immediately got a mouthful of salt!
“As a kidney transplant recipient I need to avoid salt… Please make everyone aware.”
There were further complaints on X, where fans complained of struggling to find the condiment.
One said: “For the love of crisps, can you PLEASE go back to the blue sachet in Salt & Shake.
“I’ve been getting these clear/white ones recently and they’re bloody impossible to find in the bag without taking loads of crisps out!”
A second added: “Please make the salt sachet in your Salt & Shake crisps blue again! The transparent ones are impossible to find among the crisps!
“Surely the whole point of them being blue was to be easy to find, and as a homage to the old ‘blue twist’ from the old days?”
A third fumed: “Awful idea to have white salt bags ! I thought I’d found a plaster.”
A fourth asked: “Why have you changed the salt pkt colour from blue which was easy to find in the bag to a clear pkt which can’t be seen.”
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Walkers did not comment to The Sun, but said on X.com: “We’re unable to source the blue sachets at the moment, so we’ve replaced these with an alternative.
“We’ll revert to the blue sachets again as soon as possible.”
Crisps sold with separate salt bags have a tradition of more than 100 years in this country.
According to museumofcrisps.com, the first company to sell crisps commercially was The Smiths Potato Crisps Company Ltd, founded in 1920 by Frank Smith and Jim Viney.
They provided a twist of salt with their crisps, which were sold in London in greaseproof paper bags.
Smith’s was later taken over by PepsiCo, along with the Walkers brand.
I’m on a steadily rising road in northern Greece as swallows sweep over the burnished grasses to either side of me and pelicans spiral through the summer sky. Gaining height, the land thickens with oak forests and a Hermann’s tortoise makes a slow, ceremonial turn on to a sheep track at the edge of the asphalt. And then, just as the road briefly levels out before corkscrewing down the other side, a glittering lake appears beneath me – a brilliant blue eye set in a socket of steep mountains. I can’t even begin to count how many times I’ve crossed the pass into the Prespa basin on my way home from trips into town, but the sight of shimmering Lesser Prespa Lake – often striking blue in the afternoons and silvery at sunset – takes me back to the summer of 2000 when I saw it for the first time.
A little over 25 years ago, my wife and I read a glowing review of a book about the Prespa lakes region. In the north-west corner of Greece and an hour’s drive from the towns of Florina and Kastoria, the two Prespa lakes straddle the borders of Greece, Albania and North Macedonia in a basin of about 618 sq miles. We’d never heard of Prespa until then, but the review of Giorgos Catsadorakis’s Prespa: A Story for Man and Nature got us thinking about a holiday there, imagining a week or two of walking in the mountains, birding around the summer shores and enjoying food in village tavernas at night.
Footbridge to Agios Achilleios island on Lesser Prespa Lake. Photograph: Julian Hoffman
When the book finally arrived at our London flat, at a time when we were talking seriously about living somewhere else, it took just a single evening (and, to be fair, a couple of bottles of wine) to decide to leave the city behind. Not for a holiday, but to try to make a home for ourselves in the Prespa national park. Twenty-five years later, we’re still in the village we moved to – Agios Germanos.
I park the car near the pass and walk further into the hills on a path worn smooth by shepherds and their animals. It’s high summer and there’s a languor to the landscape. Clouds of butterflies drift on the hot air and a hoopoe raises its magnificent crest in an oak. From up here I can now see Great Prespa Lake as well, separated from its smaller neighbour by a wide and sandy isthmus. These two ancient lakes, thought to be in the region of 3-5 million years old, are almost entirely encircled by a bowl of mountains, making it feel a world apart when you cross into the basin. Although the water levels in the lakes have dropped significantly because of climate change in recent decades, Prespa remains a place of extraordinary vitality.
Looking north over the rolling oak forests, I can see the rough point in the lake where Greece, Albania and North Macedonia meet. Prespa is a crossroads not only of countries but of geologies too, resulting in an extraordinary profusion and abundance of wild species – almost three times as many butterfly species (172) can be found on the Greek side of Prespa than in the whole of the UK (59).
The scarce swallowtail is one of many butterfly species in the Prespa region. Photograph: Julian Hoffman
I look up as a mixed group of Dalmatian and great white pelicans lowers towards Lesser Prespa Lake. Seeing these birds in flight, carried across the mountains on wings that can have a total span of more than three metres, it feels as if you have been given a glimpse into the age of the dinosaurs. Until we read the book that brought us here, I had no idea that pelicans could even be found in Greece, let alone nest on these lakes in large numbers, but then Prespa is full of surprises. In some winters, Lesser Prespa Lake can freeze solid enough to walk across – and there are far more brown bears in the region than bouzoukis. While Prespa is a popular winter destination for Greek visitors, in part because of a ski-centre halfway between Florina and the basin, it’s the quieter spring and summer seasons when the place comes into its own for walking and nature tourism.
There’s a mosaic of cultural riches to explore here too: the remarkable ruins of the 1,000-year-old Byzantine basilica on the island of Agios Achilleios; the lakeside cliffs on Great Prespa Lake, studded with centuries-old hermitages and monastic cells, reached by hiring a boatman from the fishing village of Psarades; the churches screened by sacred groves of immense juniper trees, found on some of the many marked walking trails.
Besides the abundant nature and mountain walking that prompted us to move here, what also makes this place so special is the food and hospitality. There are welcoming, family-run guesthouses in many of the villages and excellent tavernas serving regional specialities, including slow-baked beans in a rich tomato sauce with oregano, fresh carp and sardine-sized tsironia from the lake, grilled florinela cheese brushed with red pepper marmalade, and wild greens called horta doused in lemon juice and olive oil.
I stop to watch the cross-hatchings of light on the lakes as the hum of insects deepens with the heat. A short-toed eagle turns into the wind ahead of me, briefly motionless as it hunts for snakes in the forest clearings. Then it steers northwards and away across the mountains. Beyond those peaks encircling Prespa are the beautiful, traditional market towns of Korҫë in Albania and Bitola in North Macedonia, which, together with Florina and lakeside Kastoria just outside the basin in Greece, help make the entire region one of endless fascination for me.
The Byzantine basilica of Agios Achilleios. Photograph: Julian Hoffman
There are plans to re-open the long-closed crossing between Greece and North Macedonia within the Prespa basin in the next few years, an opportunity to build further bridges between communities and make movement for tourists easier. Another project will establish a cross-border walking route between our village and the neighbouring mountain village of Brajčino in North Macedonia; it will celebrate the cultural and natural heritage of the common watershed while highlighting the importance of low-impact tourism to local economies, particularly at a time when climate change is making itself felt around the lakes and threatening agricultural livelihoods.
It’s almost time to return along the path and head home, but first I sit in the shade of an oak, its leaves rustling in the warm breeze. A steel-blue dragonfly unzips the air and I can hear sheep bells somewhere in the hills. The sound shifts and swirls, just as on the saint’s day festivals of summer, called panigyria, when the wild, soaring music of clarinets and raucous Balkan brass rises into the mountain nights as people gather with food and drink to circle-dance in village squares.
I’ve never thought of Prespa as anything but a shared place, where human cultures and wild species come together and co-exist, a place best experienced slowly and with care. And although Prespa has been my home for a quarter of a century now, when I see that blue water glimmering beneath me as I cross the pass, it still so often feels like the first time.
Vin Diesel says the planned finale of the long-running “Fast & Furious” franchise will come with an unexpected passenger.
Speaking at Fuel Fest, an automotive event in Pomona over the weekend, Diesel told fans that the final “Fast & Furious” film will bring back one of the series’ most beloved characters: Paul Walker’s Brian O’Conner. The longtime on-screen partner to Diesel’s Dominic Toretto, O’Conner last appeared in 2015’s “Furious 7,” which was completed after Walker’s death in a car accident in 2013 at age 40.
The franchise — known for its blend of street racing, elaborate heists and outsized action — has grown into one of the most successful of all time, with more than $7 billion at the global box office.
“Just yesterday I was with Universal Studios,” Diesel said in a video from the event. “The studio said to me, ‘Vin, can we please have the finale of ‘Fast & Furious’ [in] April 2027?’ I said, ‘Under three conditions’ — because I’ve been listening to my fanbase.”
Those conditions, he said, were to bring the franchise back to L.A., return to its street-racing roots and reunite Dom and Brian.
“That is what you’re going to get in the finale,” Diesel promised.
How the production might accomplish that reunion remains unclear. When Walker died during the making of “Furious 7,” the filmmakers turned to a mix of archived footage, digital effects and performances by Walker’s brothers, Caleb and Cody, who served as stand-ins for unfinished scenes. Artists at Weta Digital created more than 300 visual-effects shots to map Walker’s likeness onto his brothers’ bodies, often piecing together dialogue from existing recordings. The film’s farewell — showing Brian and Dom driving side by side before splitting onto separate roads — became one of the franchise’s most memorable and emotional moments, widely seen as a tribute to Walker’s legacy.
A return for Brian O’Conner would join a growing list of posthumous digital performances in major franchises — a practice that continues to stir debate over where the line should be drawn. In 2016’s “Rogue One: A Star Wars Story,” Peter Cushing’s Grand Moff Tarkin was recreated through a mix of motion capture, CGI and archival material, decades after Cushing’s death. In 2019, “The Rise of Skywalker” relied on previously unused footage and digital stitching to return Carrie Fisher’s Leia to the screen three years after the actress’ passing.
And in last year’s “Alien: Romulus,” the late Ian Holm’s likeness was recreated as an android using AI and digital effects, with the approval of his estate — a choice that sparked controversy and led to more practical effects being used in the film’s home release.