Transylvania

‘They call this place the Bermuda Triangle of Transylvania,” says tour guide Marius Lazin, his breath expelling a procession of cotton-wool ghosts into the sharp evening air. “So many people have disappeared here, some say it’s a portal to another dimension.” Marius is leading me on a night walk through what is often described as the world’s most haunted forest: Hoia-Baciu, a square mile of old-growth native woodland on the outskirts of the Romanian city of Cluj-Napoca. He’s been coming here three nights a week for the past 12 years, but even he looks a little uneasy as he arcs his torch like a searchlight against the knotted walls of elm and beech trees which embrace us on all sides, looking so thick that they might be the boundary of the known world.

Marius motions with his torch towards several pairs of slender beech trees, eerie in their symmetry, branches intertwined to form arches – portals or stargates, you might speculate, were you possessed of a particularly febrile imagination. “Many came in here and never came out. But don’t worry,” he adds, turning to me with a grin. “Our tours have a 100% return rate.”

Reports of strange happenings here date back centuries – the forest is named after a local shepherd who is said to have vanished in the distant past, along with 200 of his sheep. But Hoia-Baciu came to international attention in 1968, when a military technician named Emil Barnea photographed what he described as a UFO hovering above a circular clearing in the centre of the forest. In the decades since, Hoia-Baciu has drawn yogis, shamans, ufologists and paranormal investigators from across the world, curious to experience the strange energies said to echo through the forest.

It may be one of the world’s premier pilgrimage sites for lovers of the paranormal, but the forest is under threat. The western suburbs of Cluj-Napoca – a modern tech hub of more than 400,000 people, described as the Silicon Valley of eastern Europe – are encroaching, and developers are pushing for permission to clear the trees to build apartment blocks. Barring a few hectares home to locally rare Mediterranean oak trees, the forest is not officially protected, but Marius hopes that the company he co-founded – the Hoia-Baciu Project – will help to change that, encouraging the authorities to recognise the forest’s value as a tourist attraction. The company offers day and night walks in the forest, yoga sessions, paranormal lectures, treasure hunts and escape games – and even, for the particularly intrepid, overnight camping.

As twigs and autumn leaves snap and crunch beneath our boots, Marius recounts some of the folk tales and alleged paranormal happenings here. One famous story describes a five-year-old girl disappearing during a family picnic, only to rematerialise five years later with no memory of what had happened to her, having not aged a day, her clothes shy of the slightest speck of dirt.

More common reports describe mobile phones and camera equipment inexplicably shutting down on entering the woods, while emotional responses range from full-blown dread to states of ecstasy. Some people report seeing strange rashes on their skin, hearing disembodied whispers through the trees, or feel hands grabbing or pushing them, even when sure they are alone.

Marius pulls an iPad from his rucksack and shows me the UFO images which catapulted Hoia-Baciu to international attention in the 1960s. Grainy and monochrome, they appear to show a button-like flying saucer hovering above the trees. He flicks through dozens of other photographs taken in the years before and since, with similar saucer-like objects, glowing orbs or wraith-like apparitions. Enigmatic photographs of this nature have been a fixture of paranormal research for more than a century, not much use as evidence, but it’s worth noting that Barnea did not stand to profit from publishing his photographs – on the contrary, he lost his job in the military, with the communist government not looking kindly on anything with a supernatural tang. “Many of the old researchers who investigated the forest ended up in psychiatric wards,” Marius says. “Did the communist regime put them there? Or did something really happen to them, here in the forest?”

While many of the stories may be unverifiable, there is much before my eyes that is undeniably strange. All around are trees whose trunks are bent and twisted into fantastical shapes. Some bulge outwards at the base, their crowns disappearing into the black night, so they resemble giant meat hooks hanging from the heavens. Others droop like melted candles, or are bent in strange, spiralling patterns. Various suggestions have been given to explain the deformed trees: that hurricane winds could have bent the saplings, or naturally high radiation levels in the soil account for their crooked growth. But scientific investigations have turned up no satisfactory evidence.

Marius’s tours allow visitors to take part in a little scientific inquiry of their own. As we approach the clearing in the trees where Barnea took his famous UFO photographs, he hands me an EMF meter, a stalwart of ghost-hunting kits which measures electromagnetic fields. “We’re entering the most active part of the forest,” he says. “See what you can find.”

The trees suddenly stop dead as we emerge into a perfect circle. The only greenery is the short grass beneath our feet; it’s clear that it hasn’t been mown, and appears that this strange clearing is natural, not the work of human hands.

Wielding my EMF meter, I sweep the clearing like a detectorist, briefly excited when the needle begins to tick madly back and forth, only for my vibrating phone to indicate that the electromagnetic disturbance was just an incoming text message. Despite spending several hours in the forest, and being genuinely baffled by the twisted trees and the strange clearing, I haven’t seen anything I’d describe as supernatural. Perhaps the forest is a blank canvas, on to which people project their own fears and desires.

Transylvania generally is a place which stirs the imagination, where the border is blurred between fact and folklore. In rural Romanian communities belief persists in strigoi (“screamers”) – undead, shapeshifting bloodsuckers, who rise from their graves to terrorise local communities.

Bram Stoker’s famous vampire Count Dracula is forever associated with Transylvania, and Bran Castle – a Saxon monolith perched on a rocky outcrop in the Carpathian Mountains around four hours’ drive south of Hoia-Baciu – is keenly marketed as “Dracula’s Castle”. While it bears little resemblance to the shadowy ruin described as Dracula’s dwelling, and there is no evidence that it inspired Stoker, it’s still a major attraction for fans of all things gothic and ghoulish – particularly around Halloween, when the castle hosts costumed parties.

But even myth-shrouded Transylvania – literally, “the place beyond the forest” – feels solid and predictable compared to these eerie woods, which seem to be, for reasons radioactive, atmospheric or simply folkloric, a nexus for human imaginative power. “In Hoia-Baciu,” Marius says, “the line between reality and imagination is very thin.”

Daniel Stables is the author of Fiesta: A Journey Through Festivity (Icon Books, £20). To support the Guardian, order your copy at guardianbookshop.com. Delivery charges may apply. A three-hour evening walking tour in Hoia-Baciu forest from 300 RON/£50. A five-hour night tour costs 500 RON/£85

If you’re looking for a budget-friendly alternative to the UK’s overpriced Christmas markets, look no further than the ‘lesser known’ markets in Europe which offer a cosy day out without breaking the bank

Many believe there’s no better way to embrace the festive spirit than with a hot cup of mulled wine while perusing a European Christmas market. However, these events can often be quite pricey.

For instance, a cup of mulled wine at the Berlin Christmas market could set you back five euros, and an additional three if you fancy keeping the mug as a keepsake.

Staying closer to home doesn’t necessarily mean saving money either. It’s well known that UK Christmas markets are among the priciest in Europe.

For example, a visit to the Manchester Christmas markets this year could see you shelling out around £25 for a beer and a bratwurst.

If you’re eager to plan a festive trip but don’t want to break the bank, some of the ‘less popular’ European Christmas markets offer much more affordable prices. Plus, they’re usually less crowded than their UK counterparts, reports the Daily Record.

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In need of some ideas?

The team at Eurochange have done some digging into the best alternative Christmas markets across Europe, including the cheapest flights from the UK and average hotel costs. They’ve also investigated which cities offer the best exchange rates, so you know where your money will go furthest.

Laura Evans-Fisk, head of digital and engagement at Eurochange, said: “Our research shows the Christmas market in Wroclaw, Poland, is one of the best in Europe if you’re looking for excellent value for money and a truly authentic experience. Two nights of accommodation for two adults costs just £47, and food and drinks are very affordable. Sibiu in Romania is a close second when it comes to the cheapest Christmas markets in Europe. Here, you can get a mulled wine for just 86p.”

Sibiu, Romania

Laura describes Sibiu as Romania’s leading Christmas market destination, surpassing even Bucharest. The Transylvanian winter celebration, dubbed ‘The Fair In Sibiu’, attracts Romanians in crowds, running from November 14, 2025, through to January 4, 2026.

The town boasts a distinctive blend of Hungarian, Romanian and German influences, creating a cultural richness unmatched elsewhere in Transylvania, according to Laura. Set within the historic old town at Piața Mare, the markets are “beautifully decorated with thousands of fairy lights and festive trinkets”, she noted.

The affordability is particularly striking, she points out. Mulled wine typically ranges from five to 10 leu (merely £0.86).

Visitors should sample regional delicacies, including Kürtőskalács (spit cakes) and cozonac (sweet bread).

Wroclaw, Poland

According to Laura, Wroclaw is considered among Poland’s finest and most stunning Christmas markets. “It is an idyllic, real-life winter wonderland, scattered across the city,” she said.

Situated across Rynek Market Square, Place Solny, Świdnicka Street and Oławska Street, numerous stalls await visitors. Laura notes many vendors offer handcrafted items and delicacies, largely from independent traders.

Laura explains that prices remain highly accessible, with mulled wine available for merely 15 PLN (£3.08) plus a 15 PLN mug deposit. However, if you prefer not to keep the mug, surrounding restaurants and bars offer warming mulled wine for just 9 PLN (£1.85).

Innsbruck, Austria

Laura said: “Nothing will give you the ‘festive feels’ like roaming the streets of Innsbruck in the run-up to Christmas. The aroma of freshly made Kiachln (piping hot doughnuts laced with Sauerkraut) and the sound of Christmas carols are guaranteed to get you in the festive spirit.

“Fairy lights give the medieval alleys a magical glow, and in front of the city’s famous ‘Golden Roof’, you will find the Christmas markets. Visitors can also wander across to Innsbruck’s main shopping street, Maria-Theresien Straße, where there are even more chalets offering tasty snacks and handmade crafts.”

Tallinn, Estonia

“Tallinn Christmas market is a real-life fairytale in the heart of Estonia’s capital”, Laura says. Visitors can sample local delicacies, including black pudding, sour cabbage, gingerbread and warming festive tipples from 1-2 euros, making it amongst the cheapest and most authentic Christmas markets in Europe.

She said: “The real star of the show is the incredible market Christmas tree, which has been set up every year in the Town Hall Square since 1441, making it the first ever Christmas tree to be put on display in Europe.”

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Zagreb, Croatia

Croatia might not be the first destination that springs to mind when thinking of a ‘festive’ location, but Laura claims Zagreb’s Christmas market shouldn’t be overlooked. Also known as ‘Advent Zagreb,’ the city “truly comes to life” during the festive season with an epic Christmas market, a rich programme of music and art exhibitions, and an impressive ice-skating rink in King Tromislav Square.

Eloise Barker, a writer for Responsible Travel, seeks out places to go when your kids have outgrown Lapland that are more affordable than the Finnish winter wonderland has become in recent years

Lapland, with its powdery snow, Northern Lights and Sámi culture, is popular for good reason, but its Santa Claus package holidays are pricey and book up fast: more and more people are visiting, some even taking extreme trips to visit for just one day.

Last year, we reported that the average price for a family holiday in Lapland from the UK was between £4,000 and £7,000.

But Europe is packed with winter wonderlands. You won’t find the big man in the red suit in these destinations – but you’ll still have a jolly good holiday…

Have you been on an amazing Christmas trip that you think Mirror readers would enjoy? We’d love to hear about it. Email [email protected]

Slovenia

All of Slovenia’s mountain resorts can be reached within 90 minutes from Ljubljana, its compact and pretty capital. There’s been almost €80 million of investment in infrastructure like ski lifts across multiple resorts, where you can also sled, snowshoe and go winter walking. The Post Office’s annual ski report noted that the cost of skiing in Slovenia’s Kranjska Gora resort had fallen 23.5% in the 2024/2025 season compared to the year before. Plus: the city of Celje transforms into a fairytale land in December, earning it the title ‘European City of Christmas 2025’.

• The average price of a double room in Slovenia is £121/night (Kayak).
• Direct flights from London to Ljubljana start at £29 in December; from Edinburgh, £76 (Skyscanner).

Slovakia

“Slovakia really is a very authentic, family-friendly winter destination and the High Tatras is still a hidden gem of Europe,” says Petr Ivanek, founder of Slovakia Explorer. “In comparison to the Alps or Lapland – British pounds go much further.”

There are thermal spas, water parks like Bešenova Aqua Park, and snowy High Tatras resorts, and the mountains are less crowded than at Zakopane on the Polish side of their slopes. Stop in Bratislava first: last year, the Post Office named Slovakia’s capital as Europe’s cheapest Christmas market destination.

• The average price of a double room in Slovakia is £96/night (Kayak).
• Direct flights from London to Bratislava in December start at £15; from Edinburgh, £26. Direct flights from London to Poprad start at £15 (Skyscanner).

Czech Republic

For all things Christmassy, consider the Czech Republic. Prices fell in the country last year, and Brno was voted European Capital of Christmas in 2024. Capital Prague remains a staple for Christmas markets and child-friendly activities, plus its public transport is free for children under 15. Fun fact: the Czech Republic has arguably the largest ice skating ‘rink’ in the world – at Lake Lipno, just outside the medieval fairytale town of Cesky Krumlov.

• The average price of a double room in the Czech Republic is £111/night (Kayak).
• Direct flights from London to Prague start at £26 in December; from Edinburgh, £42 (Skyscanner).

Romania

Swap the beaten track for wolf prints in the snow – in Transylvania, where villagers go Christmas carolling in traditional costume between beautifully decorated wooden houses.

You can ride about by horse-drawn sleigh or husky sled, and see atmospheric Brasov city and Bran Castle with beguiling snowy backdrops. Or switch the very old for the very new: an ice hotel, the only one in southeastern Europe, is built every year, 2,000m up in the Făgăraș Mountains.

• The average price of a double room in Romania is £83/night (Kayak).
• Direct flights from London to Brasov start at £56 in December (Skyscanner).

Bulgaria

“Two of Bulgaria’s national parks, Rila and Pirin, offer wonderful opportunities for winter holidays and for families interested in winter sports such as skiing, snowboarding and snowshoeing,” says Anna Tuliyska at Sofia-based travel company Odysseia-In. The regions’ thermal springs also come into their own in cold weather. Whilst prices have risen in Bulgaria and may rise again when it adopts the euro in January 2026, the Post Office report ranked Bulgarian ski resorts among the cheapest in Europe in 2025.

• The average price of a double room in Bulgaria is £101/night (Kayak).
• Direct flights from London to Sofia start at £17 in December; from Edinburgh, £36 (Skyscanner).

Morocco

Morocco is not the baking hot destination you might expect in winter – average December temperatures are around 13°C, with highs in the 20s. Winter is an excellent time to take older kids to Morocco’s portion of the Sahara Desert.

Expect camel treks instead of husky rides, powdery sand not powdery snow, and sandboarding over snowboarding. Bolt on a stay in Marrakech for souks and stocking fillers – with the snowy peaks of the Atlas

Mountains framing the horizon. Prices drop in the winter months but can rise over Christmas.

• The average price of a double room in Morocco is £180/night (Kayak).
• Direct flights from London to Marrakech start at £15 in December; from Edinburgh, £31 (Skyscanner).