From a terrifying cliff climb, to trekking in the Andes, and trying (and failing) to get a selfie with a llama, our writer Sara Wallis had an extreme adventure in Peru
Clinging on to the side of a vertical cliff, 980ft high, I tried desperately not to look too far up or down – either view was terrifying. I’d not been in Peru for very long before I found myself literally on the edge, with my comfort zone far away on solid ground (ideally at a hotel spa).
Just below me, the 69-year-old Canadian lady in my group mused out loud that her travel insurance probably didn’t cover a pensioner scaling an iron ladder up a rock face. But here we all were, nearly at the incredible glass pod restaurant hanging off the top of the mountain, and a very long way from the bottom.
Having arrived in the stunning ancient South American city of Cusco a couple of days earlier, I was on a G Adventures group tour with like-minded travellers, all keen to tick Peru and the Inca wonder of Machu Picchu off their bucket list. We had been lulled into a false sense of security on day one with a peaceful exploration of the Pisac ruins, taking in staggering scenery, a rich history and curious llamas. But there is nothing more bonding for strangers than the Sacred Valley’s Via Ferrata (iron path), which I assumed was a gentle incline but turned out to be a thigh-burning, stomach-churning lesson in “doing your activity research”.
Grasping for the fixed iron rungs and at one point having to wobble across a tight-rope “bridge”, attached by a carabiner to a steel life-line, it’s no wonder G Adventures lists this as Your OMG Day. Video footage was immediately sent to my shocked kids. As a reward, we enjoyed a dizzying culinary experience at Skylodge, a transparent 1,310ft-high dining capsule. Travellers can – if they have nerves of steel – sleep overnight, but lunch was enough for me.
And we still had the small matter of getting back down. “Zip line or rappel?” asked the tour guide, as if he was offering tea or coffee. Hmm, launch myself off the mountain at speed or descend backwards from a rope? Abseiling down turned out to be another heart-stopping ordeal, but one I don’t regret for a second… although I did kiss the ground at the end.
Ancient Inca vibes
Having spent weeks examining my packing list, complete with deep critical analysis of water bottles and hiking socks, it’s fair to say I was keen to be prepared for my three-day hike to Machu Picchu. Rather than join the backpacking masses on the Inca Trail, G Adventures also offers an alternative, lesser-known Lares Trek option.
While it isn’t the exact route of the Incas, the Lares Trek takes in spectacular scenery and weaves through remote Andean communities. And this is the best bit – no one else was there… Mostly alone in this incredible landscape – unless you count alpacas, llamas and the odd sheep – we barely saw another human, let alone a backpacker. And which tourist wants to see another tourist? Not me.
Hiking past misty mountains, lagoons, valleys, waterfalls and glaciers, with falcons and condors flying overhead, this spectacular 20.5-mile trek is a hidden gem. Only me and Aussie traveller Biljana had chosen the Lares Trek, so for a few days it was just us and our guide Paulo – a man with the patience of a saint. “How many miles to go, Paulo? Please can you adjust my walking poles? Can we stop for another photo? Is it lunch time yet…” Ad infinitum.
Setting off from Ollantaytambo, the trek is shorter than the Inca Trail, but much higher, reaching the Pachacutec pass at 15,350ft on day two. You can’t help but feel the altitude, which makes the steep ascents even more challenging (the word breathtaking takes on a whole new meaning). But it’s worth the slow and steady climb to admire the snowy peak of Colquecruz at the top. Reaching the Lares Hot Springs at the end of the final day was a heavenly incentive – medicinal, mineral waters for those aching muscles.
The next day came the grand finale as we toured Machu Picchu, the 15th century Lost City of the Incas, perched majestically on a mountain ridge. Arriving on a scenic train from the town of Aguas Calientes, we wandered the site’s temples and terraces and saw the iconic Sun Gate. Spiritual, magical, historical – whatever you might make of it, the impact of the Unesco world heritage site is awe-inspiring.
Talk about in-tents…
If you’re going to do something, do it right and if that means a few home comforts, I’m here for it. Part of G Adventure’s Geluxe Collection, this premium tour offers intrepid adventure, but with a five-star twist. Have you still hiked to Machu Picchu if you’ve slept in a posh tent and eaten nothing but four-course restaurant-standard meals? Yes you have. Can anyone turn down a hot water bottle when you’re wearing five fleeces at night in the freezing Andes? I nearly cried with gratitude.
My hiking pal Biljana won’t mind me saying but neither of us are natural campers (hotels with walls and a bed, please). So our jaws dropped open when we saw our trek “digs”. Cots with air mattress, sleeping bag and blankets, with portable toilets and showers along the way, meant a proper rest to focus on the task at hand. Thoughtful touches included a little bag of hotel-style amenities, including shampoo and bug spray, while a team of porters (along with mules and donkeys) carried all our camping gear.
Chef Marco whipped up incredible meals along the way, from hearty porridge and soups to fresh fish, meats, salads and exquisite desserts including a celebration cake at the end. There was a glass of champagne waiting at the top of the highest peak, snacks on tap and hot coca tea to tackle the altitude and warm the spirits. The team would pack up our camp every morning, skip past us easily on the trail (cool as you like, hands in pockets, while we were puffing and panting), unload it all at the next location and create another oasis of luxury. On one occasion a mule did a runner and a porter went off in hot pursuit at dawn for several miles to lure it back. Heroes, legends, icons… and us? Happy campers.
Sweet potato
Mashed, spiced, baked, boiled, no matter what you’re eating in Peru, it will likely involve a potato, possibly even in your breakfast or dessert. Peru is renowned for potato diversity (more than 4,000 varieties) with a long history of cultivating the crop that goes all the way back to the Incas.
Quinoa, corn and trout are also Peruvian staples, while guinea pigs, or “cuy”, (cover your ears, pet lovers) are bred to be eaten as a delicacy on special and sacred occasions. OK, I bailed out of tasting a guinea pig wearing a crown at King Cuy, but I did get the chance to make my own empanada, a bit like a pasty, with a community in the rural village of Cuyo Chico in the Sacred Valley. By the time you’ve washed it down with a chicha morada, a spiced purple corn drink, you’re practically a local.
Drama llama
Llamas and alpacas have become the poster animals of the Andes. Commonly spotted on the trails, these iconic, gentle creatures will occasionally bother to turn their heads in your direction. Then, utterly bored, they will wander off just in time to ruin your selfie. By day four I could just about tell the difference – llamas are bigger, pack animals, while alpacas are fluffier, with a face like a teddy bear.
Speaking of which, a little footnote on that famous Peruvian bear, since everyone’s first question to me was: “Did you meet Paddington?” I did spot him waiting patiently by the train to Machu Picchu. I couldn’t tell you if he had a marmalade sandwich under his hat, but I was very glad to see this modest nod to the beloved bear, and not (yet) some awful tacky Paddington Land. Respect.
Book the holiday
- Several airlines, including Iberia and British Airways, operate flights from London to Cusco via Lima with fares from £650 return.
- G Adventures offers a nine-day Peru and Machu Picchu: Comfortable Camping on the Inca Trail (Lares Trek option), part of the Geluxe Collection, from £2,999pp with accommodation, meals, transport and guided tours. Flights extra. gadventures.com
- More info at peru.travel
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