Isles

Historic British Isles lido to ‘feel more like Benidorm’ in huge new makeover

LIDOS are experiencing a resurgence of popularity across the UK and this one has been open since the 1800s.

For locals it’s been a peaceful spot for a morning swim, or a Full Moon dip, but now there’s talk of it becoming more like the busy resort town of Benidorm.

Havre des Pas is a tidal pool on the edge of St Helier in JerseyCredit: Visit Jersey
With a change of operator, it could become a lot different in the coming yearsCredit: Alamy

Havre des Pas Lido is open year-round for swimming and you’ll find it in Jersey, in the capital of St Helier.

The historic pool is tidal, meaning it fills with seawater at high tide and empties at low tide.

Currently, the lido also has a waterside beach kiosk and bar along with a rooftop bar, but it could all be about to change.

From 2026 First Point will take over as the lido’s operator, and one Constable Marcus Troy, senior partner at First Point, revealed he wants to make the bathing pool and surrounding area “a resort like Benidorm.”

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Talking to the BBC, he said: “So, we are going to be talking to all the catering and hospitality businesses in the area and creating our own map as if it’s a destination in its own right, like West Park and St Brelades. A resort like you would call Benidorm, for example.

“We aren’t the size of Benidorm, but we want more activity in general – whatever it is – volleyball, swimming competitions, galas, night time events, family amusements; we might like to put bouncy castles in the pool.”

First Point will take on the lease for nine years.

Plans to open the lido in St Helier began in 1860s when The Jersey Swimming Club was established and the group sought a safe swimming space on the British Isle.

Years later and the lido at Havre De Pas opened in May 1895 with a large pool and a circular tower, which had the changing rooms and club room.

It was very popular, especially between the 1920s and 30s which is why it saw lots more improvements and additions in the years that followed.

Havre Des Pas also has a bar, Kiosk cafe and rooftop areaCredit: Alamy
The pretty lido is on the edge of Jersey’s capitalCredit: Alamy

29 new cabins were built on the tower, and there was an extension to the club built called the Blue Terrace.

Now, inside the tower is a bar with an open kitchen, dance floor and stage as well as a balcony that overlooks the pool.

There’s a dining area too which has indoor tables or the choice to eat al fresco, plus there’s the rooftop which has live music and is an ideal location for a cocktail.

The venue at the lido can stay open until 1AM and has dubbed itself the ‘ultimate Private Party Island’.

Through the summer months, the Kiosk is open with lots of light bites, as well as pizzas, burgers, tacos, fish and chips and full English breakfast offerings.

The lido is just on the coast outside of the island’s capital of St Helier – and it’s a popular spot for locals and visitors too.

One visitor wrote in Tripadvisor: “What a fabulous place The Lido Havre de Pas is! Beautiful views over the bay and to watch the people swimming in the gorgeous Lido.

“Will definitely return when I go back on holiday there next year. Can’t recommend enough.”

Another simply branded it as a “good old fashioned historic Lido”.

Not everyone is happy after the announcement of the new operator.

After the news, LidoJersey took to social media to voice concerns about it and stated that the pool could and end up being a ‘bare shell

It said: “Unless this new entity wishes to negotiate with us, which hasn’t been done to date, the site will revert to a bare shell, just as it was when we took it over in 2015.”

It added that this would mean there would be no licence for alcohol, entertainment, marriage of infrastructure like the kiosk, commercial kitchen and bar area.

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Plus, check out the huge new Olympic-sized lido could open in UK city with sauna pods and ‘clubhouse’.

And here’s the UK’s biggest indoor tropical waterpark where it’s always 30C – and you can stay all day.

Britain’s oldest lido may never reopen despite £9.3million of repairs…

The UK’s oldest lido could never reopen despite years of renovation works, costing millions.

Cleveland Pools in Bath, which was built in 1815 and is the country’s oldest, may never reopen to the public again.

It was open for just four months in 2023 after receiving £9.3 million for a revamp. But it hasn’t reopened since, and it might never do so.

The trustees of the restored lido revealed in a report that it “might not be possible” to reopen the pool, according to the BBC.

The report stated: “The risk that the cost to repair the pools and the plantroom will be substantial and beyond the resources available to the trust.

“There is therefore a risk that the pools cannot be repaired and reopened.

“To mitigate against this risk the trust is exploring all potential avenues that would allow the pools to be repaired and reopened, including but not limited to legal recourse and external funding.”

Cleveland Pools is a Grade II listed lido, and is considered the oldest outdoor swimming pool in the UK.

It opened in the early 1800s and closed in 1984. It then took a huge campaign by the public, and almost £10million to reopen the lido in September 2023.

Havre Des Pas Lido first opened in the 1800sCredit: Alamy



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Six of the best ferry crossings in the UK – from the Isles of Scilly to the Outer Hebrides | United Kingdom holidays

The hills of the Scottish Highlands were still in sight when the cry went up: “Whale!” And there it was, a humpback on the port side of the Caledonian MacBrayne ferry, blasting a great cloud of mist from its blowhole, then with a farewell flick of its tail, disappearing into the Atlantic. On other voyages you may see glorious sunsets, rare migratory birds, ruined castles and historic lighthouses. Unlike the classic road trip or the great railway journey, however, the humble ferry rarely makes it to anyone’s bucket list. They are a means to an end, only chosen by necessity. And yet, the UK has some of the best and most exhilarating voyages within its borders. From exciting river crossings to island odysseys that test the mettle of the best sea captains, these boat journeys can be the high point of any trip.

Whale-watching on the way from Cornwall to the Isles of Scilly

Starting from Penzance’s South Pier, in sight of St Michael’s Mount, the crossing to St Mary’s is the indispensable highlight of any trip to the Isles of Scilly. The gas-guzzling, climate-clobbering helicopter doesn’t even approach the magic of this ship and its three-hour voyage into the Atlantic Ocean. Penzance bursts with nautical heritage; many of its remarkable number of pubs have existed since the days of Captain Kidd and Francis Drake. Once aboard the Scillonian (built in Appledore, Devon, in 1977), find a position with a view to the starboard to glimpse Land’s End on departure, then keep a lookout for wildlife. Dolphins and whales are sighted regularly on the voyage. Birdlife includes gannets, Manx shearwaters and puffins. Watch out for bird feeding frenzies, which may attract the attention of bluefin tuna (the half-ton fish can leap clear of the water and numbers are rising fast). Other potential highlights include fin whales, the planet’s second largest animal after the blue whale – with several sightings in 2024.
A day return on the Scillonian III is £35. Woodstock Ark, a secluded cabin near Penzance South Pier, sleeps two, from £133 a night. Star Castle Hotel, close to the Scillonian’s arrival point on St Mary’s, has great food and superb views; doubles with dinner from £245.

A tugboat tow on the River Dart in Devon

There has been a ferry across the River Dart since the 14th century. Photograph: Candy Apple Red Images/Alamy

Dartmouth has a huge heritage of sailing and boats, and the lower ferry across the mouth of the River Dart is an absolute classic. The best approach is on the steam railway from Paignton, which brings you into what was once the Great Western Railway’s imposing Kingswear station on the east bank of the river. Alternatively, you could walk to Kingswear on the South West Coast Path from Brixham (a 10-mile yomp). There has been a ferry here since the 14th century and the latest incarnation is a barge with room for eight cars towed by a tugboat. The crossing is short but memorable, the flanks of the steeply wooded valley looming over a fast-moving tidal river that froths around the barge as it picks its way through a busy shipping lane. Landing is right in town, next to the blue plaque for John Davis, one of the great sea dogs of Devon, who searched for the Northwest Passage and died at the hands of pirates near Singapore in 1605. If the crossing has whetted the appetite, walk upriver along the historic waterfront to the Upper Dart ferry, another interesting boat. Originally a floating platform linked to cross-river chains that were pulled by horses, today it’s a diesel-electric paddle engine combined with cables that can manage about 18 cars.
The Lower Dart Ferry costs £5 return for a foot passenger; car and passengers £14 return. Ferryside apartment next to the ferry in Kingswear sleeps four, from £533 for three nights. Further away, Dartington Hall, once Britain’s leading progressive school, is now a top arts centre, offering wonderful gardens and accommodation, with doubles from £103 B&B.

An exhilarating passage from Berneray to Harris in the Outer Hebrides

A Caledonian MacBrayne ferry docked at Berneray. Photograph: Pearl Bucknall/Alamy

Scotland is blessed with many memorable ferry routes, but none surpasses the short voyage from Berneray to Leverburgh on Harris. A hop of just nine nautical miles and taking an hour, it crosses the shallow Sound of Harris, which is strewn with deadly rocks, dangerous tidal currents and frequent mists. Before GPS, it was a rule that the captain would turn back if he couldn’t see two buoys ahead, and occasionally the ship would slither on to a sandbank and have to stay there until the tide lifted her off. These days it remains an exhilarating passage, weaving between dozens of jagged hazards with evocative names such as Drowning Rock and the Black Curran. Listen for the ghostly cries of seals on the larger islets, and look out for a majestic white-tailed sea eagle.
The Caledonian MacBrayne ferry costs £4.70 one way for a foot passenger. Camping at Balranald on North Uist is highly recommended (tent £14), or try 30 Backhill, a restored thatched stone croft on Berneray, from £535 a week.

Crossing Harwich harbour from Suffolk to Essex

Passengers boarding the Harwich harbour ferry in Felixstowe, Suffolk. Photograph: Geog Photos/Alamy

As a shortcut at the end of the Suffolk coastal path, the ferry from Landguard Fort near Felixstowe to Harwich offers great panoramas of the harbour formed by the rivers Orwell and Stour. You’re likely to spot some of the planet’s largest container ships and a Thames barge. Alternatively, embark at Shotley Gate, the tip of the narrow and beautiful Shotley peninsula that separates the two rivers – the walk down the Orwell from Ipswich is particularly picturesque, taking in Pin Mill. Harwich old town is also well worth exploring, with some beautiful period buildings including the Electric Cinema, opened in 1911.
The Harwich Harbour Ferry connects Felixstowe and Harwich (tickets £6 one way), and Harwich and Shotley (£4.80); it runs from April to October. The Alma Inn is a gorgeous Grade II-listed pub in old Harwich, with doubles from £90 B&B.

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A hand ferry across the River Wye in Herefordshire

The barman at the pub in Symonds Yat hauls the ferry across the River Wye. Photograph: Paul Weston/Alamy

There cannot be many ferries that only run when the barman is free, but this classic crossing requires the pump-puller at the Saracens Head in Symonds Yat to shut up shop for a few minutes and haul half a dozen passengers across the River Wye using an overhead cable. Despite some deplorable environmental mismanagement upstream, the river here remains a beautiful sight. On the far bank, take the lane north to another good pub, Ye Old Ferrie Inn. Their ferry drops you on a footpath that heads up through the woods for the fine views along the curving river from the Symonds Yat rock itself. These crags were visited in 1770, by schoolmaster William Gilpin, who had an eye for untamed landscapes, triggering a revolution in the appreciation of views and nature that we still benefit from today. Alternatively, walk downriver and cross at the beautiful Biblins suspension bridge.
Both Symonds Yat ferries cost £2 for adults. The Saracens Head occupies a lovely riverside location, with doubles from £135, B&B.

Swivel from Glenelg to the Isle of Skye in the Inner Hebrides

The Glenelg to Skye ferry is a fun alternative to the modern bridge. Photograph: John Bracegirdle/Alamy

You may, of course, choose to take the bridge to Skye, but for a real Hebridean treat take the original ferry across the 500-metre-wide Kyle Rhea straits. This is the last manually operated turntable ferry in the world (built in Troon in 1969), carrying just six cars and 12 people on a five-minute voyage. Due to strong tidal currents running at up to nine knots and frequently windy conditions, the designers came up with the ingenious solution of a turntable to allow vehicles to disembark safely. Saved by a local campaign in 2006, it has now become a vital part of the Skye experience.
The Isle of Skye ferry from Glenelg costs £3 for foot passengers, and £20 for a car (with up to four passengers) one way. Sykes Cottages has a number of properties on Skye, including Beaton’s traditional thatched croft, from £457 a week.

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‘Unlike anywhere else in Britain’: in search of wildlife on the Isles of Scilly | Isles of Scilly holidays

At Penzance South Pier, I stand in line for the Scillonian ferry with a few hundred others as the disembarking passengers come past. They look tanned and exhilarated. People are yelling greetings and goodbyes across the barrier. “It’s you again!” “See you next year!” A lot of people seem to be repeat visitors, and have brought their dogs along.

I’m with my daughter Maddy and we haven’t got our dog. Sadly, Wilf the fell terrier died shortly before our excursion. I’m hoping a wildlife-watching trip to the Isles of Scilly might distract us from his absence.

One disembarking passenger with a cockapoo and a pair of binoculars greets someone in the queue. “We saw a fin whale,” I hear him say. “Keep your eyes peeled.”

This is exciting information. The Scillonian ferry is reputedly a great platform for spotting cetaceans and it’s a perfect day for it – the sea is calm and visibility is superb. From the deck, the promontory that is Land’s End actually seems dramatic and special, in a way that it doesn’t from dry land. There are several people armed with scopes and sights who are clearly experienced and observant. The only thing lacking is the animals. Not a single dolphin makes an appearance, never mind the others that make regular summertime splashes: humpbacks, minke, sunfish, basking sharks and, increasingly, bluefin tuna.

Arriving in Scilly by ship is worth the crossing: wild headlands, savage rocks, white sand beaches, sudden strips of transcendentally turquoise ocean interspersed with the bronzed pawprints of kelp. Of course, it can be thick mist and squalls, but we’re in luck, the islands are doing their best Caribbean impersonation. Hugh Town, the capital of St Mary’s, is built on the narrow isthmus between two rocky outcrops. It’s a quirky, independent town with the kind of traffic levels our grandparents would recognise.

Up the hill, from the terrace of the Star Castle Hotel, we can see all the islands spread out around us, and handily there’s a lady with a friendly labrador who gives us a pithy summary of each. St Martin’s: “Beach life.” Tresco: “The royals love it.” St Agnes: “Arty.” Bryher: “Wild and natural.”

St Agnes: Scilly has ‘the kind of traffic levels our grandparents would recognise’. Photograph: Image Broker/Alamy

Bryher is our big wildlife destination because the plan is to rent kayaks there and paddle to the uninhabited Samson island, which is a protected wildlife area. I’m banking on Samson for wildlife now that the whales didn’t show up, but first we’re going to explore St Agnes with Vickie from the Isles of Scilly Wildlife Trust.

After a short ferry ride from St Mary’s quay, we stroll around St Agnes and across a short sand spit, a tombolo, to its neighbour, Gugh. Vickie leads us up a heather-covered hillside next to an impressive stack of pink granite boulders. “St Agnes and Gugh used to have a rat problem,” she tells us. “There were an estimated 4,000 that had destroyed the breeding populations of both Manx shearwaters and storm petrels. We’re pretty sure we’ve eradicated them now and the bird populations are rising fast.”

She leans over a small burrow under a lichen-crusted rock, and sniffs. “Yes, that’s storm petrel – they have a distinctive aroma.” Using her phone, she plays a series of cackles and squeaks down the hole. No response.

I ask Vickie about the archipelago’s endemic species. The Scilly bee? “Hasn’t been seen for many years.” She chuckles. “What makes the islands special is often what we don’t have. There are no magpies or buzzards, no foxes or grey squirrels. Those absences are important.”

Agapanthus on Tresco. Photograph: Image Broker/Alamy

What they don’t have in terms of fauna, they certainly make up for in flora. The lanes and paths of St Agnes are a ravishing spectacle: agapanthus and honeysuckle, huge spires of echium and smooth succulent aeoniums from the Canary Islands. In this frost-free environment, all kinds of subtropical plants thrive, making the islands quite unlike anywhere else in the British Isles. Dotted among all this fecundity are artists’ studios, galleries, a pub and a community hall where there’s a wonderful display of shipwreck souvenirs: East India Company musket parts, skeins of silk, porcelain and perfume.

Back on St Mary’s, we swim and spot a seal. But if we imagine our luck is changing, it’s not. Next morning we are down on the quayside, bright and early for the boat to Bryher. “It just left,” says the ticket seller. “We did post the change last night. Very low tide. Had to leave 15 minutes early.”

“When is the next one?”

“There isn’t one.”

The islands, I should have known, are run by the tides. Be warned.

Without any time to think, we jump on the Tresco boat. A fellow passenger offers sympathy. “Last week we missed the boat from St Martin’s and had to spend the night there. It was great.”

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I relax. She is right. The best travel adventures come unplanned.

The low tide means we land at Crow Point, the southern tip of Tresco. “Last return boat at five!” shouts the boatman. We wander towards a belt of trees, the windbreak for Tresco Abbey Garden. The eccentric owner of the islands during the mid-19th century, Augustus Smith, was determined to make the ruins of a Benedictine abbey into the finest garden in Britain. Having planted a protective belt of Monterey pine, his gardeners introduced a bewildering array of specimen plants from South Africa, Latin America and Asia: dandelions that are three and a half metres tall, cabbage trees and stately palms. Just to complete the surreal aspect, Smith added red squirrels and golden pheasants, which now thrive.

Now comes the moment, the adventure decision moment. I examine the map of the island and point to the north end: “It looks wilder up there, and there’s a sea cave marked.”

Grey seals on the islands. Photograph: Image Broker/Alamy

We set off. Tresco has two settlements: New Grimsby and Old Grimsby, both clutches of attractive stone cottages decked with flowers. Beyond is a craggy coast that encloses a barren moorland dotted with bronze age cairns and long-abandoned forts. At the north-eastern tip we discover a cave high on the cliffside. Now the low tide is in our favour. We clamber inside, using our phone torches. A ramp of boulders takes us down into the bowels of the Earth, and to our surprise, where the water begins, there is a boat, with a paddle. Behind it the water glitters, echoing away into absolute darkness.

We climb in and set off. Behind us and above, the white disc of the cave entrance disappears behind a rock wall. The sound of water is amplified. After about 50 metres we come to a shingle beach. “How cool is that?” says Maddy. “An underground beach.”

We jump out and set off deeper into the cave, which gets narrower and finally ends. On a rock, someone has placed a playing card: the joker.

Later that day, having made sure we do not miss the last boat back, we meet Rafe, who runs boat trips for the Star Castle Hotel. He takes pity on us for our lack of wildlife. “Come out on my boat tomorrow morning and we’ll see what we can find.”

Rafe is as good as his word. We tour St Martin’s then head out for the uninhabited Eastern Isles. Rafe points out kittiwakes and fulmars, but finally we round the rock called Innisvouls and suddenly there are seals everywhere, perched on rocks like altar stones from the bronze age. “They lie down and the tide drops,” says Rafe. “These are Atlantic greys and the males can be huge – up to 300kg.”

Impressive as the seals are, the islands are better known for birds, regularly turning up rarities. While we are there, I later discover, more acute observers have spotted American cliff swallows that have drifted across the Atlantic, various unusual shearwater species and a south polar skua.

Next day is our return to Penzance, and it’s perfect whale-watching weather. People are poised with binoculars and scopes, sharing tales of awesome previous sightings: the leaping humpbacks, the wild feeding frenzies of tuna, and the wake-riding dolphins. Nothing shows up. I complain, just a little, about our lack of wildlife luck. Maddy is playing with a pair of terriers. “The thing with Wilf was he was always content with whatever happened,” she says. I lounge back on the wooden bench on the port side, enjoying the wind, sun and sound of the sea. I’m channelling the spirit of Wilf. Be happy. Whatever. It’s a lovely voyage anyway. And that’s how I missed the sighting of the fin whale off the starboard side.

The Star Castle Hotel on St Mary’s has double rooms from £249 half-board off-season to £448 in summer; singles from £146 to £244. Woodstock Ark is a secluded cabin in Cornwall, handy for departure from Penzance South Pier (sleeps two from £133 a night). The Scillonian ferry runs March to early November from £75pp. Kayak hire on Bryher £45 for a half day, from Hut 62. For further wildlife information check out the ios-wildlifetrust.org.uk

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