Tommy Banks, one of Yorkshire’s favourite foodie sons, is best known as the chef behind Michelin-starred restaurant the Black Swan at Oldstead, but he’s no stranger to pubs. In fact, the Black Swan started out as one, with Banks working behind the bar of his family’s pub before graduating to the kitchen. In 2023, he opened the Abbey Inn in Byland, and he has recently launched a hospitality arm dedicated to restoring other pubs across the UK. First up is the eight-bedroom General Tarleton in the village of Ferrensby, near Harrogate. Food, naturally, is top notch with polished takes on pub classics made with local produce (steak and Black Sheep ale pie; burgers made from Dexter beef from the Banks’ farm) – the perfect fuel for walks along the river and into the Nidd Gorge, a local beauty spot. Doubles from £175 B&B, generaltarletonferrensby.co.uk
The Bat and Ball, Oxfordshire
It’s dogs by the fire and dog collars at the bar at this charming pub in the village of Cuddesdon, best known for its clergy college. It was opened at the start of the year by the owners of the Lamb Inn in nearby Little Milton, and the chefs at both outposts cut their teeth at two-Michelin-star Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons down the road. The Bat and Ball is the more casual of the pair – there’s even a dart board – and dishes take typical pub fare (sausage and mash; ham, egg and chips) and dial them up with carefully sourced local ingredients. The five bedrooms have walls painted in rich autumnal shades to match the surrounding countryside, which is sandwiched between the Cotswolds and Chilterns. Doubles from £140 B&B, batandballcuddesdon.co.uk
King’s Arms, Lake District
This family-owned pub, which reopened at the end of August, is at the heart of the Lakeland village of Hawkshead, around the corner from the Beatrix Potter gallery and the Hawkshead Grammar School museum, where a young William Wordsworth carved his name into his desk. There’s plenty of history in the oak beams and slate floors at the King’s Arms too, which dates back to the 17th century. Behind the dark-wood panelled bar is a roster of local beers including Coniston Old Man Ale and Cumbrian Ales Loweswater Gold, while the food leans towards classic with Cumberland scotch eggs and beef wellington. Just the thing to be tucking into after a stomp up nearby Latterbarrow fell. Doubles from £145 B&B, kingsarmshawkshead.com
The Wellington at Boscastle, Cornwall
Known affectionately as The Welly, this centuries-old coaching inn overlooks Boscastle harbour on the rugged north Cornwall coast. St Austell Brewery recently splashed millions doing it up, and it shows in the cosy dining rooms, snugs and stained glass panelling. The pick of the bedrooms are the two in the pub’s turret with freestanding baths, but all 14 come with local art on the walls and OS maps and a South West Coast Path national trail book for walks. The path runs right outside: west to Tintagel Castle, birthplace of King Arthur according to legend, or round past Pentargon waterfall eastward. After a coastal hike, there’s pints of Proper Job by the fire (plump for the sofas in the Chart Room) and plates of fish and chips to look forward to, made with local catch in Gem Ale batter. Doubles from £145 B&B, wellingtonhotelboscastle.com
The Woolpack Inn, Hampshire
Photograph: Jake Eastham
Fresh from a makeover by influential interior designer Nina Campbell, this country pub is the centre of life in the tiny hamlet of Totford in the tranquil Candover valley. It is surrounded by fields and woodlands, so head chef Luke Stradling has plenty of local produce to draw on – supplemented by the pub’s large kitchen garden, right now filled with pumpkin, celeriac and winter leaves. As well as supplying almost all the vegetables on the menu, the team also donates 20% of the harvest to local charities and homeless shelters. Upstairs, eight bedrooms are named after game birds, but it’s fly fishing that’s the local star draw – casting for trout in the world renowned chalk stream of the River Itchen. Doubles from £100 B&B, thewoolpackinn.co.uk
The Fleur de Lys, Dorset
Photograph: Dave Watts
Pub and restaurant firm Chickpea has nailed the modern country pubs with rooms formula – great food, friendly bar and keen prices for overnighters. The latest addition to the fold is the Fleur de Lys, a 17th-century inn in the village of Cranbourne. The novelist Thomas Hardy was a regular guest here and makes reference to it in Tess of the D’Urbervilles. The revamp reflects its period charm: hops hang over the large open fireplace, candles flicker on tables and, upstairs, the nine bedrooms are decorated in muted colours. Walking routes loop around Cranborne Estate, with dishes such as Brixham sea bass, venison barnsley chop and sticky toffee pudding to look forward to back at the pub afterwards. Doubles from £120 B&B, fleurdelyscranborne.co.uk
The Penny Bun, North Yorkshire
Photograph: Jake Eastham
Named after a mushroom found in local woods, the Penny Bun is a departure from your traditional boozer. With its clay-plastered walls and palette of earthy browns, the look is more wabi-sabi minimalism than brass beer pumps. Between Ilkley and Otley in the Yorkshire Dales, the recently opened pub is part of the Denton Reserve, a 1,012-hectare (2,500-acre) estate undergoing a sustainably led transformation, shifting to carbon sequestering and regenerative farming. It provides many of the ingredients found on the menu at the Penny Bun, such as Tamworth pork croquette salad or gnocchi with roasted garden beetroots. The calming aesthetic particularly suits the five bedrooms (the plum one comes with a freestanding bath), with deep beds to sink into after walks across Ilkley Moor, right outside the front door. Doubles from £180 room-only, pennybunilkley.co.uk
The Ship, Norfolk
Photograph: Patricia Tobin
This summer, Sisters Siobhan and Caitriona Peyton rebooted this historic coastal inn with nine beamed bedrooms in the village of Brancaster. The cooking here has a light Mediterranean touch, and while menus have one eye on the sea (less than a mile’s walk away), game from local estates is the star turn in autumn. For Sunday lunch expect whole pot-roasted venison shoulders served with local wild mushrooms instead of the usual chicken or beef, while in the front bar settle in by the fire and tuck into a mangalitza pork sausage roll or monkfish scampi with a pint of Moon Gazer Ale. Outside, Norfolk’s big skies look especially arresting at this time of year – look out for flocks of migrating pink-footed geese – and walks cut through dunes and salt marshes. Doubles from £145 B&B, theshipbrancaster.uk
The Leicester Arms, Kent
Across the road from the entrance to medieval Penshurst Place and Gardens, this Grade II-listed pub is looking prettier than ever after a £1.2m revamp last year. It’s easy to see why it scooped Kent’s county prize at the 2025 National Bar and Pub Awards: there are deep leather armchairs by the fire in the bar, real Kentish ales from nearby Larkins, and cut-above cooking in the dining room. The menu focuses on local produce, with Kent lamb scotch egg and Whitstable oysters, while the 11 botanically named bedrooms are decorated in an attractive heritage style. Four of them come with rolltop baths for post-walk soaks after a ramble around the Penshurst Estate past the River Medway, lakes and giant oak trees. Doubles from £150 B&B, theleicesterarmspenshurst.co.uk
The Swan, West Sussex
The two-and-a-half year refurbishment of this Grade II-listed coaching inn in Fittleworth on the edge of the South Downs was worth the wait. Original features from its 14th-century roots mix with stylish comfort in the bar, restaurant and 12 beautifully designed rooms – though it remains “proudly old fashioned”, says owner Angus Davies. Meals served in the wood-panelled, painting-lined dining room draw on seasonal local produce (foraged ceps and fresh plum pudding on our visit) and lavish breakfasts are served in the barn in the pretty gardens. The old visitor books are fascinating: notable guests include JMW Turner, John Constable and Rudyard Kipling. There’s plenty to do nearby, from antique shopping in local villages to walks on the downs, Petworth House and Arundel castle. Doubles from £195 B&B, swaninnfittleworth.com
The Nevill Arms, Leicestershire
Photograph: Clive Doyle Photography
With its honeyed hamlets, pretty market towns and rolling countryside, the Welland valley is in a part of the country sometimes referred to as the Notswolds (similar to the Cotswolds but without the price tag). The Nevill Arms in the village of Medbourne was revamped in 2023, with 10 bedrooms (some with four-poster beds) spread between the pub and its converted stables – and next year they’ll add a three-bedroom stone cottage next door too. On the food front, beef, pork and lamb are reared on the owner’s farm, while in the inky blue-painted bar there’s a rotating line up of Langton Brewery beers on tap – the most popular of which is an amber bitter, Inclined Plane, named after the canal lift at nearby Foxton Locks. Doubles from £155 B&B, nevillarms.co.uk
New Inn Yealand, Lancashire
Young couple Ben and Lauren Sandiford took on the running of this seven-bedroom village inn in April. Ben brought his chef experience to the kitchen, which now turns out classy comfort food (shepherd’s pie with mash and ewe’s cheese crumb; beef and ale suet pudding) to be eaten in the beamed dining room beside the log burner. The bar is filled with a locals sipping on beers including Lancaster Blonde and Ruskin’s Best Bitter. Dogs and walking boots are welcome, and there are plenty of places to get those boots muddy nearby. RSPB Leighton Moss is within walking distance, or head for the coast at Morecambe Bay, part of the beautiful Arnside and Silverdale AONB. Doubles from £144 B&B, thenewinnyealand.co.uk
The Merry Harriers, Surrey
This popular pub in the Surrey Hills village of Hambledon, a few miles south of Guildford, was taken on by young gun publicans Sam Fiddian-Green and Alex Winch at the end of 2023. The pair, who grew up nearby, had earned their stripes in Michelin-star restaurants (Fiddian-Green as chef, Winch as restaurant manager and sommelier) and gave the Merry Harriers a suitably foodie injection, but not enough to scare away loyal locals (wisely they didn’t dispense with the Saturday meat raffle). Local ingredients – some from Fiddian-Green’s family farm in the Wintershall valley – are magicked up into bangers and colcannon with onion gravy or autumn-favourite pheasant schnitzel. The four bedrooms above the pub have had a muted makeover; six more overlooking the garden will get some love this winter. Doubles from £140 B&B, merryharriers.com
The George at Hathersage, Peak District
Photograph: Tom Hodgson Photography
Follow in the footsteps of Charlotte Brontë on the 5½-mile trail that loops from the Peak District village of Hathersage, tracing places she included in Jane Eyre. It starts at the George, where Brontë arrived in the summer of 1845 by stagecoach, as does her heroine on her way to Thornfield (modelled on nearby North Lees Hall). The George has had a few facelifts since then, most recently last year after storm damage, but its link to the famous novelist holds, especially in the Lady C Suite (one of 24 bedrooms), where it’s said Charlotte stayed. A morning a dip in the 1930s outdoor Hathersage lido (heated at this time of year) makes a refreshing start to the day; the George’s full English breakfast a more leisurely one. Doubles from £93 B&B, thegeorgehathersage.com
Ancient Shepherds, Cambridgeshire
Photograph: Jean-Luc Benazet
In the village of Fen Ditton, three miles outside Cambridge, the Ancient Shepherds’ Grade II timber-framed building dates back to 1540. It became the village pub in 1805, and remained so until chef Mark Poynton introduced “accessible” fine dining in 2020. With a new owner, but Poynton still at the helm in the kitchen, it reopened in July, with four bedrooms at the back. Tasting menus have been chosen to reduce kitchen waste (£35 for three courses, £55 for five, £85 for seven), with dishes such as monkfish crudo, and venison loin and haunch with star anise carrot. It’s a lovely three-mile stroll along the Cam to central Cambridge, or amble the other way to the thatched village of Horningsea for an ale at the Crown and Punchbowl. Doubles from £94 room-only, ancientshepherds.com
The Gaskell Arms, Shropshire
Photograph: Simon Whaley Landscapes/Alamy
The medieval market town of Much Wenlock has a fascinating claim to fame. In 1890, French aristocrat Baron Pierre de Coubertin visited to learn from, and take part in, the town’s Olympian Games in his quest to revive the ancient Greek Olympics, which returned to Athens six years later. Wenlock’s Olympian Games still take place each year, and a trail tracing their history leads to the 17th-century Gaskell Arms, where opening day speeches were once held. The 14-bedroom pub was taken over by new owners this summer and it’s a fine spot to recover after other arduous endeavours – such as a hike up the limestone escarpment of Wenlock Edge – with pies and pints of Shropshire-brewed Hobsons ale. Doubles from £92 B&B, gaskellarms.co.uk
The Royal Forest, London
Photograph: Nick Smith
On the edge of Epping Forest (a 10-minute walk from Chingford station), this blue-blooded pub is next door to the timber-framed Queen Elizabeth Hunting Lodge, built on Henry VIII’s orders in 1543. A few hundred years later, Queen Victoria stayed at what was then the Forest Hotel, giving the name the regal upgrade. The 28-bedroom landmark is now part of the fast-growing, Raymond Blanc-backed Heartwood Inns group, which reopened it last year with William Morris-style fabrics in the guestrooms, and sustainable-sourcing a priority for menus. Sunday roasts with bottomless trimmings are the fuel for rambles in some of Epping Forest’s 2,400 hectares – the Connaught Water and Chingford Plain circular is an almost five-mile loop through ancient oaks and beech trees. Doubles from £119 B&B, royalforesteppingforest.com
SCOTLAND
The Taybank, Perthshire
Photograph: PR Image
In the idyllic village of Dunkeld, the Taybank is a gorgeous spot for a winter break. Cosy up by candlelight in the beautiful first-floor restaurant, where new head chef Nicolas Fischer dazzles diners with the best local ingredients, including vegetables from the hotel’s kitchen garden. With a noon check out as standard, relax with breakfast in bed in one of five boutique bedrooms. The breakfast hampers include croissants from nearby bakery Aran, homemade granola with jam, cheese, Great Glen charcuterie and fresh juice. Stroll by the river, then book a slot in the Braan sauna and cold water plunge pool (open October to March). Then warm up in the bar with a pie while listening to local traditional musicians. Doubles from £190 B&B, thetaybank.co.uk
The Bellachroy, Isle of Mull
A vibrant community hub in the tiny village of Dervaig on the Isle of Mull, the Bellachroy has a lively bar and excellent restaurant. This winter is the first under new owners Thomas and Matthew Broom-Hughes and they’ll be decorating this historic inn with twinkling lights, candles and seasonal foliage, and offering special seasonal menus featuring Isle of Mull produce. The seven bedrooms have been beautifully redecorated, bringing in cosy textiles and local coffee and treats, and there’s a peaceful guest lounge with views of Loch Cuin. Nearby, walk on the beach at Calgary Bay and explore the woodland sculpture trail, or hike to the deserted village of Ardantairbh and Quinish Point. Doubles from £170 B&B, thebellachroy.co.uk
Plockton Inn, the Highlands
The charming fishing village of Plockton makes for a wonderful west coast escape. At the Plockton Inn feast on the region’s seafood – langoustine are the speciality, known locally as Plockton prawns. Cheerful rooms above the pub or across the road have been refreshed recently with works by local artists. The village is a brilliant base for walking, whether a short stomp up to Càrn na Frith-Àird for views of Applecross and the Isle of Skye, or a coastal meander to Duncraig Castle along the shores of Loch Carron. Plockton is also just a 20-minute drive from Eilean Donan Castle and the bridge to Skye, making a day trip to the island an easy option. Doubles from £99 B&B, highlandcoasthotels.com
The Shoregate, Fife
Photograph: Ailsa Sheldon
The Shoregate reopened in 2022 after a major restoration, creating four spacious rooms above the 18th-century village pub and restaurant. The dining room has views down the brae to the sea and feels cheery in any weather, decked out in turquoise and orange. The menu includes generous helpings of local produce, such as Scrabster cod and East Neuk surf clams in curried bisque. From here you can join the Fife Coastal Path – it’s just over 4 miles to pretty Anstruther, with views across the Firth of Forth to the Isle of May and Bass Rock. Stop for fish and chips, then retrace your steps to the Shoregate for a seat by the fire in the cosy back bar. Doubles from £200 B&B, theshoregate.com
Knipoch House Hotel, the Highlands
This 15th-century hunting lodge near Oban was refurbished in 2024 and has a new fine-dining restaurant, 1635. Legend has it that the Thane of Cawdor was murdered at Knipoch House in 1592, inspiring Shakespeare’s Macbeth. Today it’s a calm and peaceful spot, with elegant bedrooms that have a view over the loch. Sink into comfy sofas in the spacious bar, and dine at 1635 (tasting menu, £99) or in the main restaurant for lamb rump with haggis, stone bass with leeks, or pub classics (burgers and steaks). Follow the path through the mushroom-speckled ancient woodland behind the hotel to reach a viewpoint with expansive views of Loch Feochan, with the Isle of Mull in the distance. Doubles from £116 B&B, sonascollection.com
Glenuig Inn, the Highlands
The winding road around the Ardnamurchan peninsula can’t be rushed, so slow down and enjoy it properly with a stay at the Glenuig Inn, a traditional ceilidh house. Now leased and run by the community, with a full buyout in the final stages, there’s no better way to support the local economy. Stay in simple spacious rooms, and eat venison burgers and bowls of mussels in the bar – and catch a music session if you can. From the inn, walk through the woods to Samalaman beach, and keep an eye out for seals. For a longer walk, continue to the end of the road at Smirisary, then follow the rough trail to beautiful white sandy beaches with views of Eigg and Rum. Doubles from £175 B&B,glenuig.com
Scotland entries written by Ailsa Sheldon
WALES
Y Castell, Carmarthenshire
Photograph: Nate Warlow
The Heart of Wales Line is a single track railway that trundles from Shrewsbury to Llanelli on Wales’ south coast, past ancient castles and beneath swooping red kites. Running alongside it, a walking trail allows hikers to hop on and off along the route. Alight at Llangadog and Y Castell stands handsomely at the heart of town. Once a drovers’ stop and coaching inn, the pub was reopened last summer by new owners, who completed six freshly decorated bedrooms this spring. All have cosy Welsh blankets on the beds and jazzily tiled bathrooms, and one family room has built-in bunk beds. Hearty fish pie or Welsh madame (a cross between a welsh rarebit and an egg-topped croque madame) is fuel for those surrounding walks. Doubles from £120 B&B, ycastell.wales
Bryntirion Inn, Eryri/Snowdonia
Palé Hall, a five-star country hotel in Eryri, opened this pub with rooms at the estate’s gates in May, a low-key foil to the hotel’s mahogany four-poster suites and Michelin green star restaurant. The Bryntirion’s six simpler bedrooms are each named after a nearby peak in the Eryri national park, which could read like a holiday hiking challenge: Yr Wyddfa, Tryfan, Cnicht, Cadair Berwyn, Elidir Fawr and Arenig Fawr. The pub itself is filled with motoring memorabilia (vintage tyre signs above the kitchen pass; the rear of a classic Mini emerging from the wall), while former Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons executive chef Luke Selby takes over the food at the estate in January, injecting his flavour to menus that already lean heavily on local ingredients such as meat from Bala butcher TJ Roberts and vegetables grown five minutes down the road. Doubles from £140 B&B, thebryntirion.co.uk
Glan Yr Afon/Riverside, Eryri/Snowdonia
Pennal village. Photograph: Keith Morris Aerial Imagery/Alamy
When Pennal’s village pub came up for sale in 2022, funds came from far and wide – including from Cardiff-born actor Matthew Rhys whose father had grown up nearby – to help the community to buy it. More recently, the pub on the banks of the River Dyfi scooped the top prize at the Countryside Alliance Wales pub of the year awards and has added four serene bedrooms upstairs. Walkers will love it here – the Wales Coast Path runs through Pennal, and it is on the southern fringes of the Eryri national park. As well as serving beers from Cwrw Llŷn Brewery and dishing up local lamb shanks with dauphinoise potatoes, this is a proper community hub with Welsh language practice sessions over a cuppa and an annual speed sheep shearing competition in the garden. Doubles from £135 B&B; riversidepennal.co.uk
Bridge End Hotel, Denbighshire
This waterside pub, overlooking the River Dee in charming Llangollen, had a £1.5m makeover last year, giving a fresh look in earthy colours to the friendly bar, restaurant and eight en-suite bedrooms. Pub classics (scampi and chips; mac and cheese) are served alongside pints from the Robinsons Brewery, such as the full-bodied Golden Dragon Ale (Cwrw’r Ddraig Aur). Llangollen is well worth a potter to browse its antique stores and indie bookshops, and the short walk up to the remains of Castell Dinas above the town starts right outside the pub. The heritage trains of the Llangollen Railway chug out of the station just across the road, while up Wharf Hill behind the pub is Llangollen Wharf for a narrowboat trip to the vertiginous Pontcysyllte Aqueduct. Doubles from £90 B&B; bridgeendhotel.co.uk
The Bull’s Head Inn, Ynys Môn/Anglesey
Photograph: David Pimborough/Alamy
Charles Dickens stayed at Beaumaris’s Ye Olde Bull’s Head in 1859 and gave a scathing account of its food in his fictionalised book The Uncommercial Traveller. He described “side dishes of ailing sweetbreads in white poultices” and “apothecaries’ powders in rice for curry”. Fortunately, after a few changes of hands (most recently to the Inn Collection Group, who gave it a refresh in 2023) the critique doesn’t stand today. While the Bull’s listed bar is still filled with artefacts from its 500-year history, the menu runs from sides of black pudding bonbons to rich lamb massaman curry. For more history, Edward I’s unfinished masterpiece, Beaumaris Castle, is just at the end of the road, or simply pull up the drawbridge and settle in by the fire in The Bull’s lounge with a dram of Penderyn single malt. Doubles from £105 B&B, inncollectiongroup.com
NORTHERN IRELAND
The Harbourview Hotel, County Antrim
Carnlough’s historic Londonderry Arms became the Harbourview Hotel when this inn on the Causeway Coast, in the north-west corner of the country, was recast as Ireland’s first “destination whiskey hotel”. There are still live trad music sessions in the Wee Bar, but now there are also tastings of flights of whiskeys, which include drams from local distillery Bushmills, peaty smoky numbers from Galway’s Micil and a host of other Irish craft names. Warming stews (Guinness-braised daube; traditional Irish lamb) will line the stomach for a round or two of whiskey-based cocktails. Upstairs the 35 bedrooms look out over either the harbour to the front, or the glorious glens of Antrim behind – and there will be a wee bottle of the good stuff beside the bed for a nightcap. Doubles from £120 B&B, theharbourviewhotel.com
The Old Inn, County Down
At the heart of the now rambling Old Inn in Crawfordsburn, a 10-mile drive or train journey from Belfast, is an original thatched coaching inn that was built in 1614. The 32-room hotel is rightly proud of this long-ago birthdate – making it one of the oldest inns in Ireland – and there’s the 1614 Bar where you can sip on 1614 gin, a new collaboration with local Rademon distillery. More recently, the much-loved spot was bought by the Galgorm Collection in 2021, which added an outdoor spa the following year. Just last month, the Old Inn was crowned AA Hotel of the Year. Walks run from the door through the forests of Crawfordsburn country park, past a railway viaduct and waterfalls and loop down to beaches on the coast. Doubles from £170 B&B, theoldinn.com
Additional reporting by Jane Dunford
Room prices are the cheapest available for November and December and are correct at time of publishing
I am standing on what looks like a cramped, dark city street. A tavern is around a corner, a police department in front of me. And I’m lost.
That’s when I hear a whisper. “Psst.” I turn, and see a puppet peeping his head out of a secret opening of a door. Over here,” he says, and I find myself leaning in to listen to this furry, oval-faced creature in the shadows. He’ll help me, he says — that is if I can clear his name. See, another puppet has been murdered, and everyone right now is a suspect.
Campaign posters for puppet candidates for mayor inside Appleseed Avenue. “Election Day” is a tale of political espionage with puppet-on-puppet violence.
(Juliana Yamada / Los Angeles Times)
I am playing a gamed called “Election Day” at Appleseed Avenue, a relatively new escape room in a multi-story strip mall in Newhall. The puppet world is in the midst of a crisis, torn over whether humans should be allowed to wander the fictional street of Appleseed Avenue. My role is that of a detective, and throughout this game of fatal political espionage, I encounter multiple puppet characters — electricians, would-be-mayors, gangsters, dead puppets.
Drama ensues, and that’s where we humans come in, helping the puppets crack the case before we’re banned from their world once and for all. One needn’t be up on the state of puppet politics to participate — and don’t worry, the domestic affairs of Appleseed Avenue are relatively divorced from those of our own. Only a penchant for silly absurdity, and a stomach for puppet-on-puppet violence, is required.
While the look of the puppets may be inspired by, say, “Sesame Street,” with characters that are all big mouths and large eyes, the tone of “Election Day” leans a bit more adult. Recommended for ages 13 and older, “Election Day” will feature puppets in perilous conditions. And if you’re playing as a medical examiner, be prepared to get a glimpse at a mini puppet morgue.
Guests will play as detectives or medical examiners in Appleseed Avenue’s “Election Day.”
(Juliana Yamada / Los Angeles Times)
“Sometimes people do think, ‘Oh, this is for little kids.’ Not quite,” says Patrick Fye, who created the experience with Matt Tye. “We call it PG-13.”
“We wanted that dichotomy,” says Tye. “Really silly puppet-y characters in a gritty world.”
Fye and Tye are veterans of the local escape room scene — Fye the creator of Evil Genius Escape Rooms and Tye the developer of Arcane Escape Rooms. “Election Day,” however, while a timed experience, isn’t a pure escape room. Think of it more as a story that unfolds and needs solving. We’re not trapped. In fact, one puzzle actually utilizes the waiting room, as “Election Day” toys with the idea of traversing the human world and a puppet universe.
Patrick Fye and Matthew Tye, founders of Appleseed Avenue, along with their lookalike puppets.
(Juliana Yamada / Los Angeles Times)
Puppets weren’t necessarily the driving idea behind their joint venture in Appleseed Avenue. Creating a so-called escape room that was more narrative based was the objective. They wanted a room, for instance, where puzzles felt natural rather than forced. “Election Day” isn’t a space, say, with complex cipher codes to untangle. I was reminded of old-fashioned adventure video games, where one is prompted to look at objects, combine them or go on scavenger hunts, like the one prompted by the puppet I met in an alley.
Puppets were simply a means to an end.
“How can we make something that feels like you’re actually in the story and has more video game-y elements, as opposed to, ‘I’m in an Egyptian tomb. Here’s a padlock,’ ” says Fye. “We were trying to figure out how to mix the diegetics with the overall design. We stumbled on crimes and puppets because we thought it was fun and funny.”
One problem: Neither had created puppets or puppeteered before. Enter online classes, where Tye learned how to craft arm-rod puppets.
“We thought it was the coolest idea we had,” Tye says. When we both look at something and go, ‘We don’t know how to do all of this yet,’ we don’t let that stop us.”
Appleseed Avenue is home to an escape room featuring puppets. It doubles as the street name in which the game, “Election Day,” takes place.
(Juliana Yamada / Los Angeles Times)
“Election Day” does unfold like a live-in video game. At times, we’re interacting with a screen, as puppets will relay us messages and quests. Often, we’ll explore the space, as the two have created an elaborate set. Teams are split. Half work as detectives, and half as medical examiners. We can communicate via an inter-room conference system, or simply run back and forth.
But listening to everything the puppets say is paramount, as clues are often hidden in dialogue. Both say they have done too many escape rooms where the story felt too divorced from the actions they were being asked to complete.
“We even say at the beginning of the game, ‘The story really matters.’ You have to pay attention to it,” Fye says. “There’s a moment I’ll never forget. We were doing a Titanic room, and we were in the engine room shoveling coal. But isn’t the ship sinking? What is happening? A lot of times a story is just set dressing.”
Appleseed Avenue’s ‘Election Day’
The initial response to “Election Day” has been positive, so much so that the two are set to debut a second game in 2026, a sci-fi room titled “Shadow Puppet.” The latter will utilize the same Appleseed Avenue set, although additional spaces will be built out. They’re also looking at some more kid-friendly options. Planned for 2027 is a game titled “Puppet Town Day,” in which little ones will receive passports that prompt them to interact with the puppet characters.
Wanted posters for puppets. Many are a suspect in Appleseed Avenue’s “Election Day.”
(Juliana Yamada / Los Angeles Times)
For now, however, think of Appleseed Avenue as part of greater Los Angeles escape room trend. Whether it’s Hatch Escapes with its corporate time-jumping game “The Ladder” or Ministry of Peculiarities with its spooky haunted house, creators here are emphasizing story. Appleseed Avenue is no different, introducing us to a wacky cast of puppet characters.
It also achieves a rare feat: It makes murder feel ridiculous.
Says Tye: “When there’s a guy named Alby Dunfer who’s getting it from a blowdart from a hitman, it’s like, ‘OK, this is fun.’ ”
Any deviation from the beaten track comes with moments of uncertainty. Is this the right dirt track? Is our progress going to be thwarted at any moment by an impenetrable thicket, or worse still an implacable landowner who will force a ham-fisted reverse? As it turns out, we are only temporarily stalled by two male peacocks jousting in the middle of the lane in a kaleidoscopic blur of feathers and fury. We wait for them to retire to the grass verge and continue to bounce up the track until we see a sign for our cottage pointing to the left. This leads us deeper into a woodland of oak, ash, birch and Douglas fir, until we finally see a brick-and-stone house standing in a clearing set back from the trail.
From the outside, Van Cottage looks like a pioneer homestead, with a crooked stone chimney to one side and a metal-roofed veranda to the other. Around the corner there’s a wood-fired hot tub, and beyond the garden fence in a little forest glade is a small brick dunny. The house sits on a ridge, and the garden offers views over the carmine-coloured ploughed fields and billowy woodland of Herefordshire.
This pioneer spirit continues inside, where there’s a kitchen with a wood-fired range, and an oak-beamed living room with a wood burner, a comfy sofa and a range of books. A wall of old oak boards has retained remnants of the wallpaper of previous occupants, adding a patina of history. The original two-up, two-down stone cottage dates back to the 18th century and a brick extension was added in the mid 19th century. Upstairs, there are two bedrooms, a shower room and a sink overlooked by a mirror encased in an old leather horse collar, in keeping with the cottage’s farm-labourer origins. But the most recent renovation has converted it into a wood- and solar-powered off-grid escape.
The living room at Van Cottage. Photograph: Matt Davies
My own idea of an off-grid escape has roughly conformed to the same blueprint since I read a line in Albert Bigelow Paine’s The Tent Dwellers many years ago: “Then away to the heart of the deep unknown, where the trout and the wild moose are. Where the fire burns bright, and the tents gleam white, under the northern star.”
In our current deep unknown, a fleeting glimpse of a roe deer as I make my way to the outside dunny will have to make do for the wild moose. But we get the fires burning bright in the stove and the hot tub and then strike out around fields of buttercups and clover to walk down to a lake stocked with trout on the nearby Whitfield Estate. As I cast a line out over the water, a red kite circles in the thermals above and the chirrup of a redstart in an oak provides the melodic soundtrack. After thrashing the water until dusk, I walk away empty-handed but content.
Back at the cottage, we lower ourselves into the outdoor hot tub, which has reached a tolerable temperature, and watch the stars gleam white as a blanket of darkness envelopes the cottage and a tawny owl hoots in the distance.
The next morning, the realisation of being off-grid truly kicks in. While I wait for the kettle to boil – a full 30 minutes as I neglected to keep the stove stoked overnight – I step outside and into a cacophony of nature. My bird app identifies chiffchaffs, wrens, great tits, blackcaps, blackbirds, nuthatches and a woodpecker. A startled hare skitters beyond the garden fence and a group of female pheasants saunter by. The only thing missing from this Disneyesque scene is a flotilla of butterflies.
Photograph: Matt Davies
The thing about waiting for a kettle to boil is that it forces you to slow down. So I occupy my time by reading the cottage’s literature, in which I discover that nearby, on the A465 to Hereford, is Lock’s Garage, described as “one of the great frontier stores in the whole country”. The notion of a frontier store in the UK is new to me, but it plays perfectly into my romanticised notion of backwoods living. The reality, when I arrive at Lock’s Garage later is a little more prosaic. It’s a petrol station with a Londis storefront. But I soon discover that it’s so much more besides. Outside, the fruit and veg shelves display trays of giant papaya, agave leaves, dragon fruit, lychees and nashi pears. And inside the fridges are laden with grass-fed Hereford beef and rare-breed pork, some from the owners’ own farm. There’s cheese from Hereford and Wales, and local beers and wine. We come away with sausages and steaks for the barbecue that evening.
We spend the next few days in leisurely exploration – dog walks in the Big Wood surrounding the cottage, where there are signs of tree-cutting and squirrel traps on high platforms. One day, we walk down into Kilpeck village, where grotesque medieval motifs guard the porch of the Church of St Mary and St David, which architectural historian Nikolaus Pevsner described as “one of the most perfect Norman churches in England”. We explore the ruins of the Norman motte and bailey castle overlooking the church, and a painterly landscape beyond of barns and grazing Hereford cows. We stop for lunch at the Kilpeck Inn, where we dine on sea bream with cauliflower and brown butter puree, and local cider, before walking it off on a stretch of the Herefordshire Trail.
Skenfrith Castle is just over the border in Monmouthshire. Photograph: Maciej Olszewski/Alamy
On other days we head into Hay‑on‑Wye to browse the bookshops, and walk country lanes around Skenfrith Castle, just over the border in Monmouthshire. But mostly we spend the time sitting outside listening to birdsong, pulling books from the shelves and deciding our daily menu. It’s surprising how fully so little can occupy you without a television to fill in the gaps. And even though the cottage has broadband, our laptops remain unopened throughout the visit. We replace doomscrolling with keeping the home fires burning in the range and the hot tub. Each evening is spent with a saunter down to the lake in pursuit of an elusive trout. And each evening I return to the cottage with an empty net, but with a lightness of being after another day in the “heart of the deep unknown … and under the northern star”.
The trip was provided by The Cottage Company. Van Cottage, which sleeps four plus two dogs, has three-night breaks from £475
Rescued trekkers reach China’s Qudang township while 200 others still face treacherous Everest conditions awaiting help.
Published On 6 Oct 20256 Oct 2025
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Rescuers have guided more than 350 people to safety after they were stranded by blizzard-like conditions on the Tibetan side of Mount Everest, Chinese state media reported on Sunday.
In total, more than 500 people were caught by surprise when unusually heavy snow and rainfall lashed them on the way in the Tingri region of Tibet, one of the main routes to ascend the world’s tallest mountain.
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Those rescued on Sunday were taken to the small township of Qudang, on the Tibetan side of the peak, CCTV reported.
Some 200 trekkers who remained stranded in treacherous conditions as of Sunday were due to arrive in Qudang in stages under the guidance and assistance of rescuers organised by the local government, CCTV reported.
The CCTV report did not indicate whether local guides and support staff accompanying the trekking parties had been accounted for. It was also unclear if trekkers near the north face of Everest, also in Tibet, had been affected or not.
Heavy snowfall in the valley, which lies at an elevation averaging 4,200 metres (13,800 feet), began on Friday evening and persisted throughout Saturday.
Ticket sales and entry to the entire Everest Scenic Area were suspended from late Saturday, according to notices on the official WeChat accounts of the local Tingri County Tourism Company.
“It was so wet and cold in the mountains, and hypothermia was a real risk,” said Chen Geshuang, who was part of an 18-strong trekking team that made it to Qudang.
“The weather this year is not normal. The guide said he had never encountered such weather in October. And it happened all too suddenly,” Chen told the Reuters news agency.
In neighbouring Nepal, Sherpa communities have been adapting to increasingly unpredictable conditions as climate change contributes to more frequent and dramatic climate shifts in the Himalayas, posing risks to climbers and the Sherpa communities who work there.
In a situation update shared on Sunday, Nepal’s Tourism Board said that search and rescue operations were ongoing after the weather “improved significantly” across Nepal, with “clear skies in Kathmandu and many other parts of Nepal”.
The update came after heavy rains triggered landslides and flash floods across Nepal, killing at least 47 people since Friday.
Thirty-five people died in separate landslides in the eastern Ilam district bordering India. Nine people were reported missing after being swept away by floodwaters, and three others were killed in lightning strikes elsewhere in the country.
The floods and landslides in the mountainous regions come as South Asian countries continue to battle ongoing floods, including in Pakistan, where some four million people have been affected.
The Post Office Money report highlights how Hoi An isn’t just a cheap place to visit, but that it’s getting cheaper. Across a basket of ten holiday items visitors are likely to buy, Hoi An was the cheapest of the long-haul destinations looked at, and 10% cheaper than it was in 2023
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Hoi An in Vietnam is a riot of colour(Image: tawatchaiprakobkit via Getty Images)
A 15th century city with rows of colourful houses has been named as the best value destination for winter-sun breaks.
Hoi An in Vietnam returns to the number one spot it last held in 2023 in the Post Office Money rankings of the best long haul destinations, ideal for jetting away from our miserable shores to in the long, wintery days ahead.
The town is an exceptionally well-preserved example of a South-East Asian trading port dating from the 15th to the 19th century. The unique heritage site show influences from Vietnam and further afield, coming together to produce a unique public space.
In the evenings the lights from the yellow painted buildings and orange sun reflect off the water in a captivating way. Thanks to an Unesco decree, more than 800 buildings have been preserved, meaning the village looks much like it did several centuries ago.
“My favorite way to explore any new city is by walking and seeing what hidden treasures I can find. Because cars and motorbikes aren’t allowed to drive in the Ancient Town for the majority of the day, the area is prime for exploring on foot,” suggests blogger Travel Lush.
“Wandering aimlessly around the Ancient Town is easily one of the best things to do in Hoi An. And sure, it is very touristy, but I always love marveling at the old buildings, snapping photos of the postcard-perfect alleyways, sampling street snacks and popping into all of the little shops – you honestly never know what gems you’ll stumble upon in Hoi An’s historic center. The people-watching is pretty great too!
“Getting the chance to take in Hoi An’s magical scenery from a bicycle is one of my all-time favorite Hoi An activities. Cycling is big in Hoi An and most hotels here offer complimentary bicycles. It’s an incredible way to check out all of the city’s beautiful temples, emerald rice paddies and everyday street scenes.”
The Post Office Money report highlights how Hoi An isn’t just a cheap place to visit, but that it’s getting cheaper. Across a basket of ten holiday items visitors are likely to buy, Hoi An was the cheapest of the long-haul destinations looked at, and 10% cheaper than it was in 2023.
Visitors can bag a bottle of lager for £1.23 and a cup of coffee for slightly less.
Another big draw of the destination is how pleasant its weather is. Throughout the year the Vietnamese city enjoys temperature of around 29C on most days. However, it does have a long rainy season, from November through to January, so it may be wise to visit before, during the autumn, or from February.
While it may be cheap once you’re there, getting to Vietnam will cost you. Right now Skyscanner is listing return flights from the UK for £780.
There are plenty of other revelations in the Post Office Money report, which saw places in India and the Far East dominate the value top ten, taking seven of its places.
Last year’s leader Cape Town, in South Africa, is still a good bet for value in second place. Bali, Indonesia is in third. A three-course meal with wine costs just £35.48, the cheapest in the survey.
Mombasa, Kenya moved up to fourth place, beating Tokyo, which got more expensive. Penang, Malaysia and Phuket, Thailand are now in the top 10 after prices falls there. Lower prices in Colombo, Sri Lanka too saw it jump ahead of Delhi, India in our tables
Travel operator First Choice has named ‘shoulder season’ travel one of their top cheat codes for budget-conscious travellers. These are the best destinations to visit in September and October.
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With temperatures in the 30s, Turkey is a great destination for September travel(Image: Getty Images)
Summer may be over, but this might be the best time of the year to plan your next holiday. The start of ‘shoulder season’ means off-peak pricing for accommodation and flights, making it a great time to explore a new destination.
According to the travel operator, First Choice, you could save up to £240 per booking in September compared to August. While September is still a popular month for late-summer trips, many UK travellers don’t realise the holiday potential of October.
First Choice says October and the beginning of November are ideal for a city break, and they’ve shared some of the best – often overlooked – destinations to find some sun.
What are the shoulder seasons?
Shoulder seasons are the off-peak periods between busy travel seasons like summer and Christmas. Travel in months like September and October can often be slower, as destinations cool down but don’t yet offer the festive fun that Brits are eagerly awaiting. Spring is also a shoulder season, particularly the months of March or April.
What are the best destinations for shoulder-season travel?
If you’re keen for sun close to home, the Mediterranean is your best bet. Specifically, Turkey, Cyprus, Spain and Greece in Europe. The Canary Islands, Morocco or Tunisia in North Africa are also strong options.
If you’re willing to travel a bit further, Dubai is another great option. Additionally, summer hotspots like Seville, Rome and Marrakech present a different side for travellers to discover in the autumn months.
Turkey in September is a top destination for shoulder season holidays, as temperatures hang around 30C. Travellers can enjoy the beachy atmosphere of Antalya and Dalaman with fewer crowds and cheaper prices.
First Choice, says Tenerife is also “a classic all year round” pick. Temperatures cool down to the mid-20s in September, which is still conducive to beach days and hiking trips to Mount Teide. The often crowded summer destination will be significantly quieter during autumn, especially in popular areas like Playa de las Americas and Costa Adeje.
With temperatures of 28C in September – cooling to around 24C in October – don’t discount Majorca in the fall. Palma is packed with impressive features like the Moorish Palace and Arab baths that can be explored and appreciated year-round.
Finally, in Cyprus summer rolls into September, making it a great shoulder season destination. Travellers will have their pick of pristine beaches and can enjoy the island’s historic landmarks without the pushy crowds.
While most European holiday destinations are winding down in October there’s one island in the Mediterranean where the resorts are still lively and the weather stays warm
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Limassol has some beautiful Blue Flag beaches(Image: De Agostini/Getty Images)
If the thought of chilly autumn mornings, rain and wind fill you with pure dread, you may be looking to book a break in October for a final taste of warming late summer sun.
Many resorts start to shut up shop at this time of year and wind down their tourist attractions as visitor numbers decline, the nights draw in and the temperatures start to drop.
However, there’s one island in the Mediterranean where the main destinations remain very much open with plenty to offer holiday makers who aren’t quite ready to accept summer is over or who want to treat the kids to a half term trip to help ease those back to school blues.
The third largest island in the Med, Cyprus, is located in sparkling azure waters southeast of Greece and south of Turkey. Less than a five hour flight from the UK, it is one of the warmest places in this part of the European Union thanks to its subtropical climate and the summer generally lasts eight months from April through to November.
Temperatures during October can reach 28C or higher on occasion and even in the cooler four months, it’s possible to enjoy 20C. Coastal areas in December enjoy as many hours of sunshine as London does in May on average so sun seekers are certainly well catered for.
The main resorts make the most of their balmy climes and welcome holidaymakers late into the season. On the East Coast restaurants and kids’ clubs in Paphos and Limassol are still running and lively.
The beaches in Protaras and Ayia Napa are heaving in high summer but by this time of year are much calmer so great for families to make the most of with the sea temperature averaging around 24C.
Those with younger children or elderly travellers may prefer the sandy, serene beach of Fig Tree Bay in Protaras where it’s possible to explore the beautiful turquoise waters with a spot of snorkeling or on a boat trip. Limassol offers a long stretch of gorgeous coastline with some Blue Flag beaches and a stunning marina.
For those wanting something more energetic than making sandcastles and dozing in the sun, the island has plenty of water and amusement parks.
The always buzzing Ayia Napa is home to a number, with the Greek mythology-themed WaterWorld being the most famous, while the naturally landscaped Aphrodite Waterpark is situated in Paphos.
It’s here that fans of ancient history can also visit the Tombs of the Kings. The UNESCO World Heritage Site offers visitors a glimpse into the mysterious burial practices in underground tombs dating back to the 4th century. Larnaca, the oldest city in Cyprus also has a wealth of historical sites, museums, churches and cathedrals.
Traditional Cypriot cuisine is influenced by Greece and the Middle East. Meze is very popular, with a selection of small dishes such as dips, grilled meats, seafood and cheese, particularly halloumi, which is the national cheese.
Souvlaki (charcoal skewered meat) and Stifado – a hearty stew as well makaronia tou fournou, which is a baked pasta dish, is also very popular and tasty. There are plenty of options for the fussier palate or younger visitors, with restaurants offering British inspired menus.
Recent visitors to Cyprus have shared their experiences on Tripadvisor, with one advising on the weather during autumn. “We have been four times to Paphos in October,” they wrote.
“The temperature in mid October in the early afternoon has been around 28 degrees with beautiful blue skies. We have been able to eat outside in the early evening and used a pashmina later.
“Could still swim in the pool but it was a bit chilly. The sea, however, was fine to swim in.” Another added: “We’re always there mid-October and it’s lovely – still short sleeves in the evenings.”
Images of this enchanting destination have overtaken TikTok feeds all summer, but winter is the best time to visit this Slovenian city – home to some of the bluest waters on the continent
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Lake Bled is defined by its turquoise waters and looming mountain backdrop(Image: Getty Images)
Just because summer has come to a close, doesn’t mean you should turn a cold shoulder to your favourite holiday hotspots. Some places double as a sunny escape and a winter wonderland, and a new list is highlighting a destination that is the best of both.
The car rental experts at SIXT have revealed the most stunning winter sun destinations across Europe. At the top of the list is Lake Bled, Slovenia, home to one of the continent’s bluest bodies of water.
SIXT analysed the bluest bodies of water in Europe to note the most picturesque winter destinations for Brits to visit during the shoulder season and cold months. The group colour-picked high-resolution photographs of 100 of the most beautiful bodies of water across Europe before settling on Lake Bled as one of the top spots.
According to SIXT, Lake Bled is the highest ranking city break destination and third bluest in Europe. It also has a stunning mountainous landscape that makes it an even more surreal travel experience.
Skating on the lake is not recommended for safety reasons, but there are indoor and outdoor rinks to enjoy(Image: Getty Images/Vetta)
Although a hotspot for tourists in the summer, this city break is also a hidden gem for those seeking a snowy few days away this winter. Not only does the blue water create an impressive backdrop, but Bled is the site of many fun winter activities.
Skating on the lake is not recommended, however there are plenty of indoor and outdoor rinks for travellers to enjoy in addition to skiing, snowboarding and sledging on nearby slopes like Straža Hill. Straža also happens to be considered the most beautiful viewpoint in the area that offers incredible vantages of the city of Bled, the lake, and surrounding mountains.
Just a few years ago, Slovenia was a relatively under the radar holiday destination, but 2023 and 2024 saw record-breaking growth. In the UK alone, searches for ‘flights to Ljubljana’ surged exponentially.
From December onward, a snowy backdrop sets in, creating a magical setting without the peak-season crowds, perfect for romantic getaways. It’s this combination of natural beauty, blue water and winter activities that makes Lake Bled Europe’s ultimate cold-weather city break this year.
Travel to Slovenia has become more popular year-over-year(Image: Getty Images)
Chris Robshaw’s wife Camilla Kerslake has made a drastic move to head off speculation about Strictly Come Dancing’s infamous curse just days before he takes to the dancefloor
Chris Robshaw’s wife plots genius plan to escape dreaded ‘Strictly curse’(Image: Max Cisotti/Dave Benett/Getty Im)
Strictly Come Dancing is set to return this weekend, and former England rugby captain Chris Robshaw will be among the new celebrity contestants.
However, while he prepares to take to the dancefloor, his wife Camilla Kerslake has reportedly already taken steps to make sure the infamous and dreaded ‘Strictly curse’ doesn’t enter their marriage.
Camilla, 37, who tied the knot with Chris, 39, in 2018, is said to be keen to shut down speculation before it starts and has even invited his professional partner over for dinner.
“Camilla is a woman’s woman. She knows it’s inevitable that women will be compared and pitted against each other, but she won’t stand for that. She’s always been very vocal about women supporting each other and has already invited Chris’ partner over for dinner.
“She wants to build a friendship outside of the show in a bid to stop any gossiping around the curse,” a source revealed.
Chris is apart of this years series of Strictly (Image: CREDIT LINE:BBC/Ray Burmiston)
Camilla is determined to beat the dreaded Strictly curse(Image: Max Cisotti/Dave Benett/Getty Im)
According to insiders, Chris’ dance partner has been receptive to Camilla’s efforts, with both women finding common ground and planning to spend time together before the series begins.
“Chris thinks they’ll hit it off as mates,” the source added, “and he’s joked to friends that he’ll end up being the third wheel,” they told The Sun.
The ‘Strictly curse’ has become a well-worn talking point since the show first began in 2004, with several celebrity contestants leaving long-term partners for their professional dancers.
Notable cases of the dreaded curse include Countdown star Rachel Riley splitting from her husband before marrying professional dancer Pasha Kovalev in 2019.
Stacey Dooley also left her partner Sam Tucknott and later had a child with professional dancer Kevin Clifton. Elsewhere, comedian Seann Walsh was brutally dumped after being caught kissing his professional dance partner, Katya Jones.
Chris joins a cast which includes Vicky Pattison and Dani Dyer(Image: PA)
Camilla is determined not to let history repeat itself in their household as friends say she wants to ensure there is unity between her and Chris’ dance partner rather than any sense of rivalry.
Away from the dancefloor, Chris and Camilla have also been dealing with a personal and terrifying challenge. Earlier this year it was revealed that the couple had been targeted by a stalker.
Addressing the situation at the time, Camilla said: “Chris and I are so grateful to the press for handling a very difficult situation with such sensitivity. It’s meant we can focus on keeping our little family safe.
“We’ve truly been overwhelmed by the kindness shown. From here, we’re choosing to move forward. This won’t define us and instead, we’ll be focusing on our family and the exciting journey ahead with Strictly.”
Chris joins a cast that includes former Love Island star Dani Dyer, TV personality Vicky Pattison, and YouTube sensation George Clarke.
The series will officially launch this weekend with the pairing-up episode, before the celebrities and their professional dancers kick off the live competition.
We explored Sardinia’s wild west coast by ebike with Bosa Bike Experience, who had us whizzing up into vertiginous mountain villages with views of the sparkling azure sea, then back down in time for mirto spritz at a sunset bar right on the seafront. Then back into Bosa’s maze of colourful cobbled streets for delicious Sardinian specialities like seafood fregola, smoked ricotta and wine from local vines grown on volcanic soil. The nearby beaches were perfect – some family-friendly, others wild and deserted. Emma
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A spectacular Italian hotel beneath Sorrento’s cliffs
View over the Bay of Naples from Sorrento. Photograph: Stuart Black/Alamy
One of my favourite autumn escapes is the Hotel Admiral (doubles from about £140 B&B) snuggled into the cliff face of Sorrento. I would spend my mornings here dozing on warm black sand and swimming in the sea, pleasantly warm after having had summer to heat up. At about two o’clock, the sun retreats behind the cliffs, leaving afternoons for wandering a network of shady passages and rickety stairways that lead to charming restaurants and shops. Come evening, lambent orange lamplight cloaks the village in sleepy romance while wine taverns murmur Italian music. And, ever-present across the bay is looming, magnificent Vesuvius. Catrina Conway
Cycling in the golden light of Tuscany
An entrance to the Anfiteatro in Lucca. Photograph: Escape the Office Job/Alamy
Lucca is a perfect late summer escape, bathed in golden Tuscan light and alive with cultural charm. Its tree-lined Renaissance walls invite leisurely bike rides, while the car-free old town offers tranquil strolls through winding alleys and piazzas. In September, the city glows during the Luminara di Santa Croce, a candlelit procession that transforms Lucca into a living artwork. Markets brim with seasonal produce, and nearby vineyards begin their harvest. Whether you’re savouring buccellato in a shaded cafe or climbing Torre Guinigi for rooftop views to the Apennines, Lucca blends serenity, history and sensory delight. It’s ideal for those seeking warmth without the crowds. Catherine Taylor
The party boats have left Formentera – but not the sunshine
Platja de ses Illetes on Formentera . Photograph: Zoonar/Alamy
Ibiza’s quieter sister, Formentera, is bliss once the August party boats depart. By early September the heat has mellowed, but the sea still feels like silk. Hire a bike at La Savina, pedal along pine-scented lanes to the dazzling sands of Platja de ses Illetes, then linger over sunset paella at a chiringuito (beach bar) as flamingos swoop across the nearby salt flats. With most day-trippers gone, even the island’s lone lighthouse at La Mola feels yours alone, and off-season ferry deals from Ibiza make this pocket-sized paradise surprisingly gentle on the wallet. Azeem
A French B&B that has the Lot
The medieval fortress town of Capdenac le Haut. Photograph: Herve Lenain/Alamy
For a gentle late-summer escape, head to Le Relais du Chien Bleu (doubles from €80 a night), a hidden B&B on the Lot-Aveyron border. Set in a 19th-century townhouse, it serves superb vegan dishes (yes, in France!) made from local market produce. Stroll down to the Lot River, nibble figs straight from the trees, and wander the medieval streets of Capdenac-Le-Haut, while the nearby railway town of Capdenac adds historic charm. With fewer crowds and warm, attentive hosts, this is the perfect spot to savour the relaxed rhythms of rural southern France as summer eases into autumn. Liam
Ancient island trails scented with thyme, Greece
Church of the Seven Martyrs on the island of Sifnos. Photograph: Photo Stella/Alamy
For a blissful late-season escape, head to the Cyclades island of Sifnos a few hours on a ferry from Piraeus, Athens’ main port. The summer crowds have faded, but the sun still warms the quiet beaches and whitewashed villages. Enjoy fresh seafood at harbour tavernas, hike ancient trails scented with wild thyme, and join locals at gentle evening festivals. With lower prices and a slower pace, Sifnos reveals its authentic charm – perfect for unwinding before autumn truly arrives. Sandra
Praça do Giraldo, Évora. Photograph: Philip Scalia/Alamy
The Alentejo basks in golden light well into late September and October. The region stretches from cork oak forests to wild Atlantic beaches, with daytime temperatures still hovering above 20C. In the whitewashed town of Évora, Roman ruins and quiet plazas invite slow wandering. Farther west, the coastline near Vila Nova de Milfontes offers warm surf and near-empty sands. Alentejo is languid and sun-drenched, a secret escape where summer lingers and time seems to pause. Matthew Healy
Take the Tarragona train in Spain
The amphitheatre in Tarragona. Photograph: Damkier Media Group/Alamy
Tarragona is really easy to reach by Eurostar, TGV, then local train from Barcelona. Self-catering accommodation in the old city centre is within apartment buildings that may well incorporate the ancient city walls or the foundations of the Roman circus and mean you can experience living like a local with narrow communal staircases and markets on your doorstep. Outdoor tables at restaurants are delightful well into autumn and the waves at the beach are still warm. Entrance to the amphitheatre is only €5 (beat that Rome!) where you can see surviving painted wall plaster. Amy
Agritourism amid Ottoman splendour in Albania
Traditional Ottoman houses in Berat, Albania. Photograph: MehmetO/Alamy
The Unesco-listed town of Berat, nicknamed the “town of a thousand windows”, not only offers amazing places to see such as castles, Ottoman-era houses, museums and so on, but also it’s a perfect place for agritourism. If you want to experience harvesting fruits such as grapes and figs (Alpeta is one of the many vineyards and farms offering agritourism), then September is an ideal time to visit. Gentian Agalliu
Stay on a rewilded nature reserve, south-west France
The sleepy woods of south-west France are wonderful for a late summer break. Stay near Limoges at Le Moulin de Pensol (gîtes from €60 a night), run as a nature reserve with plenty of rewilded land. Mushrooms take over from butterflies as the main September attraction, with the advantage that they stay still for photos. I walked miles along golden, leaf-lined trails in the Périgord-Limousin natural regional park. The annual chestnut festival at Dournazac completed the autumn package. Rachel
I was so tired of being hot, and my patience for city life was wearing thin. I needed to find a place with a cool breeze and without the groan of my wall air conditioner and without honking, sirens or tailpipes that sound like unhinged bumblebees.
After an hour’s drive, I pulled into the Islip Saddle trailhead parking lot, and I was alone with birdsong and a chilly breeze. I had arrived!
A view of the Antelope Valley from the segment of the Pacific Crest Trail from Islip Saddle to Little Jimmy Trail Camp.
(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)
But as I faffed around preparing my hiking bag, a roaring construction truck pulled into the parking lot, blessing me with the smell of diesel. And then another. And then a road-paving machine that looked so advanced and alien, I wondered whether it could pave the moon.
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Did these Caltrans workers miss the memo that this was a place of peace and solitude? How could they do this to me?
A bit huffy, I crossed Angeles Crest Highway and started the 2.1-mile trail — which is part of both the Pacific Crest Trail and the Silver Moccasin Trail — from Islip Saddle to Little Jimmy Trail Camp. I’d chosen this hike because it includes a north-facing slope, which means it gets less direct sunlight, and it starts at about 6,600 feet, climbing to 7,500 feet at the campground, which also helps ensure a cooler temperature.
Thick bunches of rabbitbrush grow along the trail from Islip Saddle to Little Jimmy Trail Camp.
(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)
Ambling up and through native plants, though, I kept grumbling to myself about the noise, clearly unable to appreciate the first views of the surrounding mountains.
And then I asked myself: “What in the world are you doing here?” I started laughing. Was I really going to let perfection be the enemy of the good? Had the heat cooked my brain?
Soon, I was pausing to appreciate the yellow rabbitbrush covering both sides of the trail. I spotted a molting lizard, looking haggard, and hoped I could make a similar transformation of my mood.
As chipmunks darted across the path, though, I was brought down, again, by the seemingly endless number of burned trees killed by the 2020 Bobcat fire. Would they ever grow back? Were they dead now?
Then I realized I was literally missing the forest for the trees. Yes, there were so many burned, and presumably dead, pine trees. But the forest floor was alive! The ground was covered in manzanita, Grinnell’s beardtongue and purple-pink Parish’s wild buckwheat.
A chipmunk darts around the detritus near Islip Saddle in Angeles National Forest.
(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)
I heard the tap, tap, tap of a nearby woodpecker, perhaps in search of its next meal. Curious little mountain chickadees flitted past. And the chipmunks, as always, made me laugh as they hopped from rock to rock, unsure of whether they wanted to eat a snack or hide.
A molting lizard scurries across a rock pile near the trail to Little Jimmy Trail Camp.
(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)
All I could initially see was what we’d lost to the fire, and I was missing what had returned. Amid the blackened trunks, pine saplings dotted the forest floor.
About 1.4 miles in, I spotted living, breathing green trees, the survivors. I kept trudging along, feeling a newfound sense of awe at nature’s resilience.
Soon, I reached Little Jimmy, a 16-site backcountry trail camp. There were no campers, just me and the hulking pine trees. Sweaty, I felt a little cold as the wind blew past me. I had arrived.
I hope regardless of which of these three hikes you take, nature helps you free yourself from what’s weighing you down.
The view from Little Jimmy Trail Camp if one chooses to lie down and meditate on a picnic table.
(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)
1. Islip Saddle to Little Jimmy Trail Camp Distance: 4.2 miles (with an option to extend to Mt. Islip) Elevation gained: About 850 feet Difficulty: Moderate Dogs allowed? Yes Accessible alternative: Paved paths through Buckhorn Campground
A stingray swims in the Colorado Lagoon, which was once part of a wetlands ecosystem that encompassed most of east Long Beach. The lagoon is now part of a 29-acre park in Long Beach.
(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)
2. Colorado Lagoon path Distance: 1.4 miles Elevation gained: Minimal Difficulty: Easy Dogs allowed: Yes Accessible alternative: This is an accessible hike!
This 1.4-mile accessible urban hike through a 29-acre marine wetland in Long Beach includes walking along the sidewalk, crossing over the lagoon’s causeway and taking a wide dirt path shaded by native plants and trees. And as a bonus, when you’re finished, you can go swimming at the lagoon’s sandy beach.
As I traversed the path, I paused on the bridge to look around the lagoon. I saw motion in the water and realized I’d spotted a sting ray! I watched the sand ray swim along for a bit, amazed at my luck. That said, if you do choose to go swimming in the lagoon, make sure to practice the sting ray shuffle.
Because of a large construction project, you cannot complete the full loop around the lagoon. You can either start at the eastern corner of the beach on the paved path and take the path in a northwesterly direction or start near Monrovia Avenue and East 6th Street, and take the sidewalk toward the lagoon.
Also, if you visit this weekend, look for the Friends of the Colorado Lagoon, who will host an educational talk from 10 a.m. to noon Saturday where visitors will learn about the lagoon’s history and ecology and then participate in a hands-on activity helping clean up the lagoon. Learn more at the group’s website.
Upper portions of the Rising Sun Trail afford elevated ocean views from Solstice Canyon in Malibu.
(Al Seib / Los Angeles Times)
3. Solstice Canyon Trail Distance: 3 miles Elevation gained: About 400 feet Difficulty: Moderate Dogs allowed: Yes Accessible alternative: Legacy Park loop
Even when its seasonal waterfall is dry, Solstice Canyon is a lush landscape of coastal sage scrub (with the occasional black-hooded parakeet). This moderate hike takes you through the canyon, along its creek where black walnut and oak trees offer shade as lizards dash across the path. You can either take this more moderate route 1.5 miles in and turn around. Or if you’re thirsty for ocean views, make a loop by taking the Rising Sun Trail, a 1.4-mile more challenging route.
Regardless of where you go, please make sure to check the weather beforehand and go early in the day to avoid the hottest parts of the day. Thankfully, autumn is coming!
3 things to do
Churchgoers pass out water to cyclists at a previous CicLAvia event.
(CicLAvia Los Angeles)
1. Bike through Historic South–Central and Watts Nonprofit CicLAvia will host a free open streets festival from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. Sunday where participants can traverse a 6.25-mile route through Historic South-Central and Watts. Visitors can walk and bike the route or choose any other people-powered means of transport. The route will include music, local food vendors and more. Learn more at ciclavia.org.
2. Bare it all on bikes in L.A. L.A.’s World Naked Bike Ride will start at 10 a.m. Saturday downtown. Riders can choose from a more challenging ride at 10 a.m. or an easier 9-mile ride at 2 p.m. Participants can skate, scoot, jog or bike in their birthday suits along the ride. Body paint optional! Learn more at the group’s Instagram page.
3. Star gaze in Malibu The Malibu Creek State Park docents will host a night of stargazing and astronomy from 7:30 to 8:30 p.m. Saturday at the park’s amphitheater. Guests are encouraged to bring blankets and their curiosity. Learn more at the park’s Instagram page.
The must-read
(Photo illustration by Avery Fox / Los Angeles Times; photos by Tiana Molony)
Whenever you visit Santa Barbara, a two-hour jaunt northwest of L.A., your trip most likely includes a visit to one of the city’s gorgeous beaches. But as Times contributor Tiana Molony points out, “Santa Barbara is a place of dual delights.” Molony outlines the best places to hike in the region, where you’ll have views of both the Pacific Ocean and the mountains. Saddle Rock Trail, for instance, offers a sweeping panoramic view. Or if you want to take a dip in freshwater, check out Rattlesnake Canyon. Any of the eight hikes she writes about sound like a worthy side quest on a trip along the Santa Barbara coast.
Happy adventuring,
P.S.
Dear Wilders, we have an important task at hand this fall. The California State Parks Foundation is asking nature lovers to report sightings of western monarch butterflies as they overwinter along the Pacific coast from October through March(ish). You can do so by downloading iNaturalist, a free community science app, and register for an account. You will use the app to upload photographs of monarchs you spot, noting the location where you saw them. I spotted a monarch last week near my apartment complex’s dumpster and immediately uploaded the blurry but helpful image. For those with extra time, you can register to volunteer to help count monarchs in overwintering sites near you. Let’s help document these important pollinators and do our part to ensure their survival.
For more insider tips on Southern California’s beaches, trails and parks, check out past editions of The Wild. And to view this newsletter in your browser, click here.
This year, fewer than 40 per cent of Spanish travellers went on holiday in August, which is the traditional month off, as it is in France. This marks a significant change in travel habits
The shoulder season in Spain is looking increasingly peak(Image: Getty Images)
Holidaymakers heading to Spain during the autumn may find themselves overwhelmed by crowds of fellow tourists.
It used to be that heading to Britain’s favourite holiday destination in April, May, and September was a great way to bag a decently priced warm-weather stay while also dodging the throngs that descend on Spain during the high summer.
Newly published data suggests that this may no longer be the case. EuroNews reports that about one in six Spanish travellers will go on holiday this September as off-peak trips surge.
A major driver in this change is the travel habits of locals, which have shifted dramatically in recent years. Fewer than 40 per cent of Spanish travellers went on holiday in August, which is the traditional month off, as it is in France.
September is an increasingly popular month for holidays in Spain(Image: AFP via Getty Images)
Now, around one in six Spaniards say they will go on holiday in September this year, according to Spain’s National Observatory of Outbound Tourism (ObservaTUR). Last year, Spain welcomed in 9.6 million international tourists in September, marking a 9.1% increase compared to the same month the year before, FTN reported.
A consequence of growing interest in September holidays is rising prices. Across Spain, a night’s stay averaged €132 (£114) last September, a 21 percent jump from 2023.
One of the major factors in the shift from July and August to September is the weather. Global heating has rendered many parts of Spain uncomfortably, even dangerously hot in the high summer. Last year I spoke with a Brit in Seville who told of the roastingly hot temperatures there and how unpleasant it had become as a holiday destination.
This summer, large parts of Spain have been hit by wildfires due to a long stretch of hot weather and a lack of rain. In August, Extremadura in the west of the country was scorched by what one official called a ‘mega fire’.
Another factor is the rise in interest in Spain generally as a holiday destination. According to Spain’s National Institute of Statistics, the country welcomed 11 million international visitors in July – the highest monthly total in its history. That comes after the country recorded 55.5 million arrivals in the first seven months of 2025. Tourist spending has so far risen 7.2% year-on-year, to €76 billion (£66 billion) so far this year, a 7.2 per cent rise compared with 2024.
Booked-up hotels and a lack of space on flights mean holidaymakers keen to visit their favourite Costa or beach are choosing dates further from the typical tourism season peak.
A third key factor may be the overtourism movement, which has been working hard to highlight issues related to tourism, such as rising house prices, overcrowding, overburdened public facilities, and much else.
In issuing warnings about the overwhelmed nature of some Spanish holiday hotspots, they may have convinced tourists to aim for the quieter months instead.
American Jessica Pegula says completing an escape room with friends helped her rediscover her form and embark on a run to the US Open quarter-finals.
Fourth seed Pegula needed just 54 minutes to beat a nervous Ann Li 6-1 6-2 on Sunday and keep alive her hopes of winning a career-first Grand Slam.
In the last eight she will face 2024 Wimbledon champion Barbora Krejcikova, who saved eight match points on her way to beating home hopeful Taylor Townsend 1-6 7-6 (15-13) 6-3 in a thrilling match.
Pegula, 31, has endured a difficult summer, with a humbling first-round exit at Wimbledon followed by early round exits at WTA events in Washington, Montreal and Cincinnati.
“I felt terrible coming into this tournament, honestly,” Pegula said after beating compatriot Li.
After quitting midway through a practice session with world number one Aryna Sabalenka days before the US Open, Pegula’s mood improved after a night out with friends.
“[We] went and did an escape room with my friends and had, like, two drinks and [realised] I need to just chill and stop getting so frustrated and overthinking all these practices,” she said.
Pegula – who enjoyed a superb run to the final at Flushing Meadows 12 months ago – looked much closer to her best on Sunday as she broke Li six times on her way to victory.
“I know when she’s serving well and has confidence she’s really dangerous,” Pegula said of Li, who she beat in a much tighter match at the French Open back in May.
“I felt like she came out a little slow and nervous and I wanted to jump on that and not let her feel comfortable for a second, that was my motivation all match.”
I wake to the peal of church bells as sunlight streams into my room and go out on to the balcony to look up at Mount Storžič.My base, Senkova Domačija, an organic family-run farm just outside the village of Jezersko, is so picturesque it looks like an AI hallucination: an ancient farmhouse with beautiful wooden outbuildings, cows grazing in small green fields, organic vegetables growing neatly in rows, and a backdrop of some seriously dramatic mountains. The Slovenian capital Ljubljana may be less than an hour away, but here in the Jezersko valley, just 3 miles from the Austrian border, it feels like another world.
Bordered on the east by the Kamnik-Savinja Alps, and on the west by the peaks of the Karavanke mountain range, and with a tranquil green lake at the bottom of the valley, there’s a tangible sense of apartness – an idyllic escape from the world.
Before being confiscated by the communists in 1947, the farm had been in the same family for more than 500 years. It was returned in 2005 and passed down to current owner, Polona, by her grandmother. Today, three generations of her family live here and it’s very much a working farm as well as a place to stay. There’s camping in the meadow under the ash trees in summer (bring your own tent), parking for caravans and a choice of simple rooms and self-catering apartments in the farm buildings. Mine, up in the attic of the ancient farmhouse, has been restored using reclaimed wood. Resident goats, two big dogs, cats and chickens wander free-range, and Jezersko–Solčava sheep graze in the fields – though in summer they are taken up to the alpine pastures.
It’s all very eco. Water comes from a glacier, heating is generated by wood chips from trees felled in the local forest, and all food is organic and grown on site (three polytunnels mean vegetables are harvested year-round). With the addition of new solar panels, the farm hopes to be fully self-sustaining next year.
Mountain stream-fed Lake Planšar is perfect for a bracing dip. Photograph: 24K-Production/Alamy
Volunteers return time and again to help out in exchange for food and accommodation. Peggy and Pat Rebol, who’ve come from the US for the third time, tell me: “This place is magic, it’s not only the lake and the valley, it’s the people – this family captured our hearts and all we want to do is keep coming back.”
I’ve come here to hike, so after a breakfast of meats and cheeses, homemade yoghurt and freshly collected eggs, I set out with Drejc Karničar, Polona’s husband (who also happens to be mayor of Jezersko’s 700 inhabitants). As we walk through forest towards the mountains, Drejc points out a rare “golden shoes” orchid at the edge of the wood. I’m not much of a botanist but this delightful plant lives up to its name – each yellow flower looks exactly like a Cinderella shoe. “They only bloom for 14 days,” says Drejc, “you’re lucky.”
We make our way up to Češka koča (the Czech hut), a mountain lodge that was named Slovenia’s “hut of the year” in 2024. You can stay overnight or just grab a hearty lunch on the way up the mountain (the hut is open June to September; book by phone on +386 4028 3300). These high alpine slopes are where Drejc drives his sheep to graze for the summer. They used to go to a different pasture, he tells me, but that was on the bears’ commuting path and “those bears had a party”.
The hike up feels like an Indiana Jones obstacle course, with wire cables screwed into the sheer mountain sides, wooden bridges and at one point a ladder across the rock.Drejc comes up to check on the sheep once a week in summer and brings them salt, essential to their diet.
A room at Senkova Domačija
The next day, I set my sights on summiting Velika Baba, known locally as Mount Baba, about 15 minutes’ drive from the farm. This is a far more demanding climb, so I’m accompanied by expert mountain guide Tomo Česen. As we walk through the forest and climb towards the summit vibrant blue alpine flowers are strewn across the rocks, and purple heather borders the trail. There are no cables and the exposed ridge is slightly terrifying. I’m roped to Tomo for safety and scramble along, trying not to look down. Just as I reach the top, the clouds part cinematically, the sky clears, the snowy mountain peaks gleam white against the blue and I catch my breath – literally and figuratively.
Tomo tells me this ridge marks the border between Austria and Slovenia, and on the way back we pass one of the original border stones, engraved with “SR” for Slovenian Republic. I pause for a moment, with one foot in Austria and the other in Slovenia, thinking I need to brush up on my history.
Supper back at the farm is cooked by Polona (available Tuesday to Saturday, book in advance) and served outside, weather-permitting, accompanied by a panoramic view of the mountains. I tuck into Slovenian beef noodle soup, “Easter bread” (simple and rustic) with home-made salami, and lamb and potatoes with salad from the greenhouses.
The area is characterised by meadows, mountains and ornate churches. Photograph: Aliaksandr Mazurkevich/Alamy
The next day I cycle from the farm down to the village through an avenue of ash trees and across a flower meadow, known locally as “frog square”, to meet Tanja Rebolj, a self-taught čarovnica(herbalist), who makes a variety of teas, jams and herb-infused liquors that she sells from her home. She tells me there are more than 1,200 species of plant in the valley, one of the richest places to forage in Slovenia – and she sometimes runs workshops on herbs for visitors.
Alongside its abundance of flowers and herbs, Jezersko is also one of the most densely forested valleys in the country, and Andreja Košir is my guide to the woods. A former UN translator, she now leads various forest experiences (family audio walk, €210). Hooked up with super-sensitive microphones and recording equipment, we stroll among the trees pausing to listen and record the “hidden sounds of nature”. An ants’ nest sounds just as frenetic as you might imagine. And when Andreja inserts specialist needle microphones into the earth, I hear water moving deep underground. “What fascinates me about nature,” she says, “is that trees can communicate so well. Beech trees are especially talkative – they exchange lots of information.”
We have time, too, to simply relax in the woods. Swinging in a hammock, I glimpse the sky through the canopy, bird song rings out around me. A simple pleasure, but I leave with a profound feeling of wellbeing.
Centuries ago, Jezersko was covered with a massive glacial lake, but an earthquake caused it to drain away in the 14th century. Today, the emerald green, heart-shaped, artificial Lake Planšar, proves irresistible as I cycle past. I gasp as I jump in – it’s bone-jarringly cold and I emerge flushed pink and energised, then ride home through sunlit meadows.
On my last day, as the bells of St Andrej’s church ring out the hour, volunteers are busy in the farm’s Peter Rabbit gardens, chickens scratch at the grass and the sun slants through the apple trees. I take one last look up at Mount Baba before turning for home, feeling clearer and lighter. Mountains, forests and fairytale flowers, long hikes, cold swims and nurturing organic food … sometimes it’s the simple things that make for a magical holiday.
The trip was supported by the Slovenian Tourist Board and Šenkova Domačija farm. Rooms from €119 B&B; dinner €30 (book in advance); apartment for four from €165; camping from €12
Laura Coffey’s book, Enchanted Islands: Travels Through Myth and Magic, Love & Loss, is now available in paperback (Summersdale, £10.99).To support the Guardian and Observer, order your copy at guardianbookshop.com. Delivery charges may apply
Being less than four hours away by plane, the islands of the Madeira archipelago are a favourite destination for Brits throughout the year, and equally adored by Portuguese and German tourists.
Travel giant TUI suggests staying in the capital, Funchal, where you can enjoy a blend of colonial buildings, churches, and relaxed squares, reports the Express.
The beautiful fishing village of Camara de Lobos on the island of Madeira(Image: Getty Images/iStockphoto)
The old town’s narrow streets are brimming with wine bars and family-owned eateries, while the marina boasts cafes and top-notch seafood spots.
Funchal’s cable car whisks tourists up to the leafy suburb of Monte, home to stunning botanical gardens.
For a taste of Madeira’s heritage, don’t miss a ride on the wicker sledges from Monte back down to Livramento.
The cable cars in Funchal are worth doing
Designated workers physically push visitors down the hill, an exhilarating experience that many say is a must-do during any visit.
East of Funchal, you’ll find Canico De Baixo. This place is a blend of old and new, with an 18th-century church and town square at its heart, surrounded by modern boutique hotels and clifftop villas.
While soaking up the stunning views on this island, known as both the Floating Garden and Hawaii of the Atlantic, it’s essential to sample the world-renowned Madeira wine.
Madeira wine comes in four main styles, each offering a different level of sweetness. The sweetest of them all is Malvasia, followed by Bual, then Verdelho. The driest is Sercial.
There’s also a resurgence of Madeira made from a grape called Terrantez, which was nearly wiped out on the island. It’s said to have a sweetness level similar to Bual and Verdelho.
To the south of popular parkland the Meadows, Bruntsfield Links offers a quieter, calmer stretch of green, free of Big Top entertainment. Book a table at cute wine bar and cafe Margot for brunch and order french toast with ginger-poached pears and bay-leaf custard, or hot smoked trout with leek fritters. Later in the day stop by for oysters, small plates and natural wine by the glass. Bag a window-seat or a table outside to enjoy views of Arthur’s Seat, which at sunset seems to glow pink and gold. Sister restaurant LeftField on the same corner is gorgeous for an elegant dinner with the same incredible views.
Portobello beach
Space aplenty … Portobello beach. Photograph: Iain Masterton/Alamy
This is Edinburgh’s seaside so hardly a secret, and on hot days it does get busy. However, compared with beaches on the south coast, it might as well be the Hebrides. Only the middle few sections nearest the cafes get truly crowded and it’s such a long stretch that there’s plenty of space to find your own little sandy idyll. Head to Shrimp Wreck for a fishfinger sarnie, or pick up a slice of Civerino’s pizza and a local Bellfield beer. Unsurprisingly there’s excellent ice-cream to be found; try a scoop at Oscar’s Gelato. Lothian Buses 19 or 26 from Princes Street.
Edinburgh’s Royal Mile is the centre of the festival action, but even here there are quiet escapes, usually into a close, the narrow alleyways that make Edinburgh’s Old Town so unique. Dunbar’s Close is a favourite, off Canongate towards the bottom of the Royal Mile. It’s a 17th-century-styled formal garden with benches and one of the city’s most tranquil hideaways. Pick up a delicious direct-trade Brazilian coffee and pastel de nata from Santu Coffee and enjoy the peace, just steps from the party. Similarly, Lady Stair’s Close, home to the free Writers’ Museum, is ideal for a quick breather. You’ll find it just off the Lawnmarket towards the top of the Royal Mile.
The Shore, Leith
Scandi style … the Shore, Leith. Photograph: robertharding/Alamy
Often compared to Copenhagen, this is Edinburgh’s waterfront eating and drinking destination. Do what the locals do and sit by the river with a cold pint of local beer from Malt and Hops, or discover the tap room at Moonwake Beer Co. Try a huge takeaway sandwich from Domenico’s for lunch – pre-order for speed. Or for indoor dining, new seafood restaurant Barry Fish is the hottest reservation this summer. Edinburgh Trams to the Shore.
The Royal Botanic Garden and Canonmills
Art of horticulture … Royal Botanic Garden, Edinburgh. Photograph: Angus McComiskey/Alamy
A true jewel in Edinburgh’s crown, the lush Royal Botanic Garden spans 72 acres with a collection dating back to the 17th century. Catch your breath among the trees, and don’t miss the panoramic views of the Edinburgh skyline from the lawns of Inverleith House. Nearby, I rate Singapore Coffee House for kaya toast and slow-cooked eggs, or roti canai with pickled vegetables. Traditional cafe Betty and George is a cosy spot for tea and cake or a bowl of soup. For a more formal meal, The Tollhouse has a great set lunch and overlooks the river. Lothian Buses 9, 23 or 27 from The Mound.
Stockbridge
Cult bakery … Lannan.
This bustling neighbourhood is a home to many of the city’s best restaurants, yet escapes much of the festival madness. For a top-tier picnic head to Herbie of Edinburgh for deli treats, or Mootz General Store for freshly baked schiacciata sandwiches – the classic is mortadella, stracciatella soft cheese[added soft cheese because it confusingly is also soup and gelato] and pistachio pesto. If you can bear the queue, add perfect patisserie from cult bakery Lannan. Enjoy your wares in Inverleith Park, there’s a big pond with swans and ducks, mature trees, and if you’re travelling with children, a good playpark. You can also walk from Stockbridge along a pretty wooded stretch of the Water of Leith path. For a slap-up Italian trattoria-style lunch, try Sotto or the excellent value set lunch at Stockbridge Eating House. Lothian Buses 29, 33 or 37 from South Bridge.
Newhaven
Stay for sunset … Newhaven Lighthouse. Photograph: Angus McComiskey/Alamy
Take the tram to the final stop and discover Newhaven harbour. Walk along the waterfront to Wardie Bay, a tucked away beach and a favourite local swimming spot. Return to Newhaven and order fish and chips from The Fishmarket to eat outside watching the boats bob in the harbour. Maybe stay for the sunset with a cold glass of wine on the terrace, then it’s an easy tram back to the city centre. Edinburgh Trams to Newhaven.
Arthur’s Seat and Holyrood Park
Stick to the paths! Edinburgh Old Town seen from Arthurs Seat. Photograph: Craig Steedman Photography/Alamy
A city with a mountain in the middle? Pretty iconic, and also the perfect place to feel miles away from it all. The main route to the top can get busy, but there’s a network of paths around the park to explore. Check the noticeboards and do stick to the paths, there are steep drops. For an easy option, follow Queens Drive around the bottom of the mountain, taking in Dunsapie Loch and St Margaret’s Loch and giving 360-degree views of the city, across the Forth to Fife and to the Pentland Hills. It takes about an hour and a half to walk and is bike, buggy and wheelchair friendly. Pick up a sandwich from Alby’s Southside to take with you.
Union Canal: Fountainbridge
The canal and accompanying path goes all the way to Glasgow through Falkirk, so you can walk for miles if you feel so inclined. Start at Lochrin Basin, then stroll to Harrison Park (1.2 miles), past brightly painted residential houseboats and the Leamington Lift Bridge. For a longer walk, continue to Slateford Aqueduct (2.5 miles) which carries the canal for 152 metres above the Water of Leith and the road below. A path beside the bridge takes you to the Water of Leith Conservation Trust visitor centre, loos and a cafe. In the area, try welcoming Kafe Kweer for coffee, pastries and hearty vegetarian lunches, or The Fountain for pub food and pints before retracing your steps back along the canal, duly refreshed.
The Pitt, Granton
Appetising … Soul Water Sauna in Granton.
Newly reopened in a new location earlier this year, The Pitt is a street-food destination worth knowing about. It’s on the waterfront at Granton with views across the Firth of Forth, easily accessible by bike or a 10-minute walk from the bus stop. Vendors change but currently include Choola Nepalese street food and Lebanese wraps from Lazeez. There’s a big indoor bar area and regular events. On site you’ll also find Soul Water Sauna, with two saunas and cold water plunge pools: a unique way to work up an appetite. From here you can walk along the promenade to Cramond village (2.3 miles) and if the tides are right, even walk out to Cramond island over the causeway. Lothian Buses 22 from Lothian Road to Waterfront Avenue then a 10-minute walk. The Pitt is open Thursday to Sunday.
Lothian Buses and Edinburgh Trams are contactless, tap on and tap off, single fares are £2.20, capped at £5 per day. Download the Edinburgh Bus and Tram app to plan routes and track bus times.
I took a week of vacation to relax, clear my head and stop obsessing over depressing news.
I hear frequently from people who say that, for their peace of mind, they’re tuning out the news altogether, so I tried it for a couple of days. Opened a book. Walked the dog.
Steve Lopez
Steve Lopez is a California native who has been a Los Angeles Times columnist since 2001. He has won more than a dozen national journalism awards and is a four-time Pulitzer finalist.
But I’m in the news business, and I felt like a hypocrite, so I kept sneaking peeks. As it turns out, that wasn’t healthy.
You can’t follow a single 24-hour news cycle without questioning your own sanity.
In which the federal government has made it a priority to arrest tamale vendors and fire meteorologists?
President Trump holds a gavel after signing the “One Big Beautiful Bill Act” at the White House in Washington, D.C., on July 4.
(Brendan Smialowski / Pool / AFP via Getty Images)
In which the Social Security Administration sends us emails fawning over the president and making false claims, the White House jokes and memes about immigration raids and the Department of Homeland Security triggers a trolling war with social media posts about its version of national heritage?
I have a weekly goal of avoiding alcoholic beverages on Mondays, Tuesdays and Thursdays, but in this political culture, what chance do I have?
With lots of time to practice, I picked up my guitar, but events of the last few weeks continued to haunt me.
The “Big Beautiful Bill” that Trump signed into law on July 4 will add trillions to the national debt, heap tax breaks on those who need them least and rip healthcare coverage away from the neediest. As a result, L.A. County’s health services are anticipating federal cutbacks in the hundreds of millions of dollars.
“We can’t survive this big a cut,” Barbara Ferrer, L.A. County’s head of public health, told the Times for a story by Rebecca Ellis and Niamh Ordner. She added: “I’ve been around a long time. I’ve never actually seen this much disdain for public health.”
Dr. Jonathan LoPresti, who worked at County/USC for decades and is an associate professor of clinical medicine at the Keck School of Medicine at USC, is alarmed. He sent me an a copy of an opinion piece he’s writing, which includes a warning that county hospitals could “again be overrun with the poor … and homeless, leading to further hospital and ER overcrowding, delayed discharges and reduction in routine health maintenance … That could lead to an increase in community TB cases and more serious complications of treatable disease, as well as deaths.”
He added this:
“How many public deaths are people willing to accept?”
There is no limit, judging by crystal clear signals from Washington.
I think we can all agree that historic rainstorms, hurricanes and wildfires in the United States and the rest of the world will continue to kill thousands.
So I swam laps, thinking that having my head under might help, but it only made me feeling like I was drowning.
Hundreds of probationary workers at the National Oceanographic and Atmospheric Administration have been fired, and the fulltime staff will be trimmed by 2,000.
These cuts, and the elimination of federal support for scientific research, are damaging in obvious ways. But when I asked UCLA professor Alex Hall what’s most disturbing, here’s what the director of the Center for Climate Science had to say:
“I feel like the thing that’s most chilling is the way the word ‘climate’ has become a dirty word.”
In other words, the politicization of the subject — Trump and supporters insist human-caused climate change is either exaggerated or a hoax — has created a form of censorship.
I may be a little biased on this topic. My daughter just graduated from college with a degree in earth science. What she and thousands like her are being told, essentially, is, “Good for you, but the planet’s health is neither a concern nor a priority. If you’re looking for work, the Border Patrol is hiring, and cryptocurrency might be a good career path.”
So there you have it. That’s how I spent my summer vacation, failing miserably in my attempt to look the other way.
But all was not lost.
I played pickleball a couple of times, in Glendale and Los Feliz, and suffered no major injuries. I took my beagle Philly to Rosie’s Dog Beach in Long Beach and watched him race around like the happiest hound in the world. And, borrowing from Trump’s penchant for cutbacks, I’ve trimmed my list of no-alcohol days from three to two.
One of the underrated luxuries of living in Los Angeles is how easy it is to make a quick escape. With nothing more than a full tank of gas and an overnight bag in the trunk, you’re only a few hours from pine-scented trails, fog-wrapped coastlines and sun-soaked desert hideaways. If you’re traveling with a dog, even better: California is dotted with towns that don’t just allow pets — they basically roll out the red carpet for them.
Los Angeles is a dog town, no bones about it. In this weeklong series, we dig into the obsession.
My dog Charlie has been my steadfast companion since I brought him home in 2021: a calming presence when I’m racing to meet a deadline, and a blur of excitement the moment he senses we’re heading out the door. Traveling with him now isn’t just routine — it’s part of the joy.
We’ve taken more than a dozen weekend getaways together: some mapped out with military precision, others sketched out over coffee. Along the way, Charlie has darted into waves, waddled down wooded trails and stretched out like a tiny emperor beneath cafe tables, soaking up the scene.
Over time, I’ve picked up a few practical tips that help make the journey of traveling with a dog smoother:
• Call ahead to confirm pet policies. Just because a spot was dog-friendly once doesn’t mean it still is. (My favorite bookstore in Ojai, for instance, no longer allows pups due to overcrowding.) It’s worth checking on weight limits, extra fees and room restrictions — details that may not be listed online.
• Pack a few familiar comforts. Charlie never travels without a half-dozen of his favorite squeaky toys. A cozy bed, treats and even a dog-approved playlist (he’s partial to ‘90s teen pop) can go a long way in making your pup feel at home.
• Plan for pit stops. Every dog has their limit on the road; Charlie’s is about two hours. That’s when he starts getting antsy and throwing side-eye that clearly says, “Stretch time!” Before you head out, map a few good stops: scenic rest areas, cafes with outdoor seating or quick walking trails to help burn off some energy.
Once the essentials are covered, the only thing left is choosing your backdrop. Here’s a short list of destinations around the state that strike the right balance: beautiful, accessible and dog-loving. Whether you’re chasing salty breezes, crisp mountain air or just a patio brunch with water bowls on standby, these eight California getaways are sure to charm you and your furry friend.