The Dutch municipality of Baarle-Nassau hosts more than 20 enclaves of the Belgian town Baarle-Hertog. Inside some of those are Dutch enclaves. It is a confusing and unique place.
A European town with a most peculiar history is split between two nations, boasting dual legal systems, contrasting architectural styles and separate populations.
The Dutch municipality of Baarle-Nassau contains more than 20 enclaves belonging to the Belgian town Baarle-Hertog. Within some of these sit Dutch enclaves.
Numerous residents find themselves living in properties bisected by the international boundary, meaning married couples retire to bed in separate countries or must cross into another nation simply to make a brew.
Approximately three-quarters of the area’s roughly 9,000 inhabitants hold Dutch passports, with the lion’s share of the territory falling under Dutch control. This situation—combined with Belgium’s more relaxed approach to landscaping—has previously sparked friction between the Baarles.
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“Back in the days when the schools emptied out at the same time, teenagers would fight,” Willem van Gool, chairman of the Baarle tourist office, told the BBC. Such hostilities eased during the 1960s when school finishing times were staggered to prevent the two communities from encountering each other on the streets.
The Dutch and Belgian sections of the town do exhibit different building styles, but unless you’re an architecture buff, the easiest way to discern your location is by observing the pavement markings. There are white crosses with ‘NL’ on one side and ‘B’ on the other, while house numbers are marked with the corresponding flag.
Dutch pavements are lined with meticulously pruned lime trees, whereas the Belgian areas boast a variety of trees that are allowed to grow more freely.
Another distinction is Belgium’s more relaxed planning laws, which can be advantageous for homeowners. When one man wanted to develop a building straddling the border, the Dutch planning committee rejected his proposal.
Undeterred, he constructed a second front door leading onto Belgium – enabling him to apply and secure permission from that country’s planning authorities.
Staff at a bank straddling the two countries would cunningly shift its paperwork from one side to the other whenever tax inspectors came knocking.
These days, much effort is expended determining who will foot the bill for various public infrastructure projects and who is accountable for resurfacing roads connecting both countries. Even the town hall is bisected between the two nations, with a vivid border line slicing through the mayor’s office.
The unique arrangement is particularly beneficial for teenagers who fancy a drink. While the legal drinking age in the Netherlands is 18, Belgians can legally enjoy a beer or wine at 16.
If youngsters are turned away by a Dutch barkeeper, they can simply cross the road for a Belgian pint. Fireworks, while banned by the noise-sensitive Dutch, are also available for purchase in Belgium.
The history of this dual-nation town is long and intricate, beginning with numerous medieval treaties, agreements, land-swaps and sales between the Lords of Breda and the Dukes of Brabant. When Belgium declared independence from the Netherlands in 1831, efforts began to determine which part belonged to which country.
It wasn’t until 1995 that all areas of no man’s land had been allocated.
Nowadays, most residents of both Baarle-Nassau and Baarle-Hertog hold dual citizenship. The success of this complex arrangement has been such that advisors to Israeli Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu have studied the area as an example of how two different communities can coexist peacefully.