AS the car turned, there it was – a towering island next to an isolated and ruined castle, emerging from the water – it truly was a real-life Neverland.
Located in the Inner Hebrides in Scotland is a tiny island with a population of just nine people.
Known as Eilean Shona, this tidal island is completely car-free and was the inspiration behind J.M Barrie’s creation of Neverland in Peter Pan.
As my boat approached the shores of the island, it was obvious why.
Towering green trees and serene still waters were both welcoming and peaceful.
Once I reached the island, the soft soil, earthy smells, chimes of birds and light breaking through the trees made it feel magical.
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The island is littered with a number of houses and cabins for visitors to stay in – for my stay, I was in the main manor house.
Stepping inside, I found myself in a Traitors-like castle, decked out with tartan features, roaring fireplaces and cosy corners with well-read books.
The feeling of being somewhere else continued when I found my room – a plush bed stood proud in the centre, and old-style windows looked out onto fresh green grass just as if I was in my own magical bubble.
The main house sleeps up to 18 people and inside has a number of spaces including nine bedrooms, six bathrooms, a dining room, library with a full-size billiards table, a drawing room, and a large kitchen.
Guests can either book the house as catered or self-catered, and for prices, you will need to contact the island (though split between 18 people it wouldn’t work out too expensive per night).
Whilst there isn’t much to do on the island, it is the perfect retreat away from the modern world and the stresses of day to day life.
Thanks to there being no shops, no restaurants and patchy phone signal, it really helps you disconnect from your mobile (and consequently social media).
This particularly hit me when I ran a bath, and the water ran yellow-brown.
Initially, I was disgusted, thinking it was dirt, and reached for my phone to do a quick Google search.
But I stopped myself.
Instead, I embraced it and later asked one of my hosts why it was that colour.
Turns out the water is in fact so clean – cleaner than most places in the UK – and the colour comes from the peat found in the surrounding landscape.
I was told it is perfectly safe to drink and bathe in, and in fact carries minerals that are good for you.
One of the activities to do on the island that is well worth experiencing, though, is taking a cold water plunge or swim – the scenery is stunning and the water is serenely calm.
Heading off the pier, I floated for a few minutes in the water, taking in the smell of the fresh, earthy air and noting the silence around me.
For those who aren’t too fond of a cold dip or want to warm up quickly afterwards, there is also a sauna near the water’s edge.
During the evening, I headed to the Village Hall, which is the island’s social hub.
Here you can enjoy a weekly pub night, table tennis, wildlife books and board games.
After enjoying my dinner, I snuggled up to the fire cocktail made from a Sapling Spirits – a climate-positive vodka brand that first started on the island.
For each bottle sold, the brand plants a tree, something I even got to do with my own tree sapling – perhaps it will be used by the Lost Boys to find their way home.
Obviously, the island has an endless amount of walks you can take, and a couple of mine included heading to the summit and to the opposite side of the island where I found Shoe Bay, with a white sand beach and crystal clear waters.
For guests who want to venture around the island’s shores, there are kayaks, canoes and paddleboards available for hire.
And whilst exploring the island, make sure to keep an eye out for wildlife as birds of prey often circle overhead.
In less than 24 hours I had completely fallen in love with the island.
It really did feel like Neverland for adults wanting to escape the modern world and I cannot wait to go back.
There are a few ways to get to the island, including via the Caledonian Sleeper to Fort William.
From there, Eilean Shona is about an hour’s drive or in a taxi.
Alternatively, you could fly to Glasgow Airport, then hire a car and make the three-hour trip to Eilean Shona.
For more hidden UK islands, here are the best in the UK, and they look more like the Caribbean and Maldives.
Plus, five islands off the coast of the UK you can visit without needing your passport.