Railways

The Narvik Stockholm night train, officially known as Nattåg 94, connects the Swedish capital with Narvik in Norway, covering more than 1,500 kilometers each way

From my bunk, I watched my wife ease herself from her bed onto the cabin floor before spinning on the spot to face the toilet door. The track lights of somewhere in the Midlands filtered and crept around the edge of the blind, providing enough illumination for her to find the handle and enter.

Unbeknownst to either of us, in stacking our bags inside the cubicle, we’d primed the above-toilet shower to soak my wife and our possessions with an unwanted blast of water the moment she squeezed in.

My half-waking dreams were cut short by her waterlogged wails as the reality of the Caledonian Sleeper quickly put to bed my night train delusions.

I recall this experience not to say the Sleeper, which connects London with the great cities and Highlands of Scotland, is a bad service. In fact, you’d be hard pressed to find a greater joy than looking out the window after a night’s kip on the northbound route to see snowcapped mountains and glistening lochs. Not just that, but it compares very favourably cost-wise to a flight and hotel, while being much less environmentally damaging.

But it is to say that returning to my pillow damp, in a bed far too close to a standard issue National Rail toilet (which the private cabins really don’t need) isn’t the classy, James Bond adjacent experience I’d been expecting. Nor was lifting the blind to a crowd of commuters on a Euston platform at 6am, staring back at my pyjamaed self.

OPINION

Milo Boyd

READ MORE: Iconic Caledonian Sleeper hints at potential new stops after starting Birmingham service

So, two years on, it was with a similar sense of trepidation that my wife and I clambered aboard the SJ night train at Stockholm Central Station to take on one of Europe’s longest train journeys.

The Narvik Stockholm night train, officially known as Nattåg 94, connects the Swedish capital with Narvik in Norway, covering more than 1,500 kilometers each way. Departing from Stockholm Central Station in the evening, it takes about 18 hours to complete the trip.

Rather than tacking up the west along the coast of the Gulf of Bothnia, the train shoots straight up from Stockholm, trundling through some of Sweden’s 28 million hectares of forests, as well as flatlands and swamps.

The final stop on the line may be familiar to war history buffs. During WW2, the British Navy entered the Norwegian fjords through the ice-free, Gulf Stream-warmed port of Narvik in pursuit of Nazi ships. They launched a dramatic and comprehensive assault that would be Hitler’s first major strategic defeat of the war.

The reason the Allied and Axis powers threw resources at this far-flung patch of Lapland is iron ore. The northernmost Swedish city of Kiruna is home to the world’s largest underground iron ore mine, which now delivers 90% of all of Europe’s supply. Securing the ore and the trainline that has been delivering it to Narvik since 1902 was crucial for powering both sides’ war machines.

In March, 124 years after the route first opened, I hopped aboard the sleeper to Kiruna – two hours shy of the final stop, but well into the Arctic Circle.

It was, in a word, fantastic.

Upon entering my second-class private cabin, I was worried it’d be a little cramped for my wife and me. However, unlike the Caledonian Sleeper, which has two unmovable beds, the SJ’s three bunks can be flipped back into the wall. When you’re not kipping, the middle can be folded away, making way for a hidden backrest below and turning the bottom bunk into a comfy sofa.

My wife and I lounged in this set-up for the majority of our trip, reading our books and watching the Swedish countryside trundle on by, including the amusingly named town Bastuträsk (sauna swamp).

I would not be as bold as to argue that the Swedish landscape is as beautiful as the Highlands. Its lakes may be bigger and its mountains significantly higher, but there are few places as moving as Rannoch Moor or as stunning as the peak of Mam Ratagan Pass.

But equally, Sweden is no slouch in the beauty stakes, and it’s surprisingly varied. In riding up two-thirds of the country, you’ll see glistening blue lakes turn to great frozen expanses; the four mighty, free-flowing national rivers Torne, Kalix, Pite, and Vindel; more ancient forest than almost anywhere else in Europe; and finally the Kölen mountain range.

The train is certainly not new, but it has a solid, vintage feel that contrasts with some of the slightly flimsy modern trains I’ve ridden on. There was something unusually soothing about the reassuring clunk of the door and the Scandi-design approved clothes hooks. The addition of a Bakelite radio alarm clock above each bed was the cherry on the 70s cake.

Unlike in the Sleeper, where we’d stacked our bags in the bathroom due to a lack of cabin space, two storage racks just below the ceiling kept the gangway clear and the room spacious-feeling.

A similar design divergence came with the toilet. The Caledonian Sleeper’s en-suite option sounds luxurious, but in reality, it’s an unwanted, even unpleasant feature. The shower room doubles as a lavatory, with a heavy, workmanlike lid covering the toilet and serving as a place to perch beneath the stream. There was something a little alarming about sleeping so close to a mechanical, seemingly suction-powered WC, and claggy about steam and shower drizzle drifting into the bedroom.

On the SJ, the idea of an ensuite is abandoned. Instead, the cabins have a mechanical shower keycard, which can be used to open the shower at the end carriage. They have a changing area, a stack of thick, fresh towels, impressive water pressure, and even a hairdryer.

After a surprisingly good night’s sleep and a spruce up in the best on-the-move bathroom I’ve ever experienced, I was feeling fresh and ready to check out the buffet car.

The carriage is divided into four seating areas around solid tables, with windows along the length of the carriage. This, and the ‘påtår’ bottomless tea or coffee system in play, meant there was little else to do but sit back, relax and watch the Arctic slip by.

Book it

The starting price of the SJ night train from Stockholm to Kiruna is 1,125 SEK (£90) for a couchette and 1,695 SEK (£136) for a 2^nd class sleep carriage.

Book at www.sj.se/en

This place deserves far more recognition – it has amazing views, a real sense of community, and a fascinating history too.

There’s genuinely nothing better than those first sunny spring days as we leave winter behind. It immediately makes you crave a visit the seaside, even if there’s still a slight chill and it’s not quite swimming weather yet.

Last weekend, I chose to take advantage of my renewed enthusiasm and positivity for life, and drove to a stunning coastal village that many people have never heard of. Admittedly it’s tiny, and there’s barely anything there, but there’s a welcoming pub and restaurant, breathtaking sea views , and it’s near to another popular seaside destination too. Lower Largo in Fife has a population of approximately 2,300, and it’s one of the most picturesque places I’ve seen.

The compact village overlooks Largo Bay, on the northern side of the Firth of Forth in Scotland. It required roughly an hour and a half to drive from Glasgow, and from Edinburgh, it’s just an hour’s drive away.

Largo is a historic fishing village, divided into two separate sections – Lower and Upper, with the small village of Lundin Links just to the left. Here, you won’t discover amusement arcades or crowds of holidaymakers, and it boasts a far more peaceful atmosphere than other coastal villages I’ve visited lately.

But don’t let the lack of attractions put you off. The more relaxed rhythm of life here was captivating, and already I’m eager for my next opportunity to return.

Waking up to those stunning views was an instant mood-booster, especially when the sun was shining brightly. The chilly temperature didn’t matter – the setting looked perfect, and the fresh coastal air felt wonderfully revitalising, reports the Express.

Lower Largo’s shoreline consists of sand and rocks, and it’s pristine. We noticed plenty of dog walkers enjoying the area, and even saw one brave soul taking a plunge in the sea, which must have felt incredible once she got past the initial cold shock.

The surrounding streets were equally delightful to explore. It’s fairly peaceful, meaning you’ll hardly encounter any traffic, but you will discover some impressively decorated front gardens. The nautical theme ran strong throughout, with garden gates featuring pirates, fish and mermaids.

We had breakfast at The Aurrie, a delightful cafe set within a converted church that offered such a warm and inviting ambience. Artwork from local artists lined the walls and was available to purchase, alongside an excellent range of hot dishes, coffees, and a cake display packed with tempting options. I chose the veggie haggis and potato scone roll with a flat white, and it was absolutely lovely.

During our visit, we also ate at The Crusoe, another wonderfully welcoming four-star hotel featuring a restaurant and pub. It serves all the traditional pub favourites you’d anticipate, from mac and cheese to fish and chips, and my entire family really enjoyed the experience.

Just over the way is the Railway Inn, another pub boasting a real fire that I didn’t manage to pop into, but my parents assured me it was fantastic and the ideal place for a post-dinner drink.

The pub enjoys a prime location right next to an impressive viaduct, now disused but still standing tall. It spans the Keil Burn, and was constructed to serve a section of the Fife Coast Railway Line. It’s been out of service since 1965 due to the reorganisation of British railways known as the Beeching cuts, but it remains a significant landmark and is well worth a look.

Another fascinating aspect of Lower Largo’s past is that it’s actually the birthplace of the man who inspired Daniel Defoe’s Robinson Crusoe – hence the hotel’s name.

Born in 1676, Alexander Selkirk was born in the village, and the house that now occupies his birthplace at 99-105 Main Street showcases a life-sized statue of him gazing out towards the horizon.

A signpost at the harbour points in the direction of the Juan Fernández Islands, some 7,500 miles distant, where he spent over four years shipwrecked.

I’m already looking forward to my next trip to Lower Largo. The overall atmosphere of the place was so welcoming, and it’s clear it has a strong sense of community.

It’s the ideal spot to enjoy a peaceful few days, but if you fancy exploring further afield, the beloved coastal town of St Andrews is just a 20-minute drive away.

While it’s best known for its golfing heritage and as the location where Prince William and Princess Catherine first crossed paths, there’s also a wealth of excellent pubs and eateries, bookshops and cafés to discover.