Austria

One Reddit user said they had visited markets in Germany, Austria, the Czech Republic, Finland, and Estonia last winter, and the experience soon began to lose its sheen.

Visiting a Christmas market is a delightful festive tradition for many. The ambience and festivity make them a great way to get into the seasonal spirit, and there’s a chance of finding some unique Christmas gifts you wouldn’t spot elsewhere.

But there can be too much of a good thing, as one Reddit user discovered when they visited eight different markets across Europe last winter. Posting on the social media site, the user said they had visited markets in Germany, Austria, the Czech Republic, Finland, and Estonia, and the experience soon began to lose its sheen.

They wrote: “When I visited more than two or three markets in a short time (weekend) they all started to blur together really quickly. Each market had its own things, like different themes, food, and decorations, but after a few markets, it became hard to remember what things were in which city.

“All the markets started to feel repetitive, like a general ‘winter/Christmas market’ packed with people rather than something new and interesting in each location.”

They added they were disappointed to see local, handmade products were often drowned out by mass-produced goods. Concluding, they said they would still be visiting some Christmas markets this year, but would spread out their visits, and wouldn’t go to as many.

“I don’t regret my travel decisions – mainly because the markets were not the main point of my travels,” they said. “But if they were, I would be, just because it turns into one big blur so easily.

“So I will definitely recommend checking out some Christmas market or two if they’re your thing, just spend a little bit more time there to actually translate and understand all the cool local products they have.”

Commenters were mixed in their reactions, with some agreeing, but others saying they loved visiting Christmas markets in the lead-up to the big day.

One wrote: “I think going to one Christmas market – either here at home or somewhere else – per year can be charming, but to be honest, the whole thing has become so industrialised that I’m pretty done even after one. But I see it as more of an experience and usually don’t want to buy much.

“Like part of the charm is being outside, getting rosy cheeks, dipping in somewhere for a cappuccino or hot chocolate, or having eiswein, being with friends and not having structure or plans. Goes honestly for outdoor markets not at Christmas time, also, but there is something unique and charming at Christmas. It is sad about the squeezing out of real artisans.”

Another said: “Visiting too many Christmas markets quickly can really drain the experience and make them blur together tbh. It is actually smart to focus on one or two. I’d also support local artisans over mass produced souvenirs to keep the culture and quality alive.”

But a third said: “I’ve been to lots of Christmas markets with nice local food, crafts and arts that you can’t easily find elsewhere. And even if it is stuff you can find elsewhere, often the ambience is often quite nice. Talking about the real deal, German markets, and the best of Dutch markets; many other countries have markets which are fake touristy imitations of the real deal.”

And another said: “I love the markets, and go to several for the vibe and the food and the gluhwein. German village markets are fantastic.”

Becki Enright has left London behind to move to the sizeable European city, which was once known for its grumpiness but has just been named the friendliest on the Continent

A Brit who swapped London for a European capital once known for grumpiness has explained why the city is actually one of the friendliest in the world.

In Vienna, the grizzly mood of locals is so renowned that there is not one, but two special words to describe it. One is ‘raunzen’, which means to grouch, crab, gripe, grouse or whimper fretfully, according to Langenscheidt.

The other is ‘Wiener Schmäh’ – what Brit Becki Enright describes as the unique kind of Viennese sarcasm and humour. “It can be hard to grasp and come across as blunt if you don’t quite get it,” the travel writer and guide explained.

According to Becki, the dark cloud that once hung over the Austrian capital has lifted, and its reputation as Europe’s grumpiest city is outdated. So much so, Vienna was just named the friendliest city in Europe by CNTraveller, which canvassed the opinions of half a million readers.

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Becki swapped London for Vienna ten years ago and has fallen in love with the city of two million. She argues that it deserves the top spot because of how welcoming it is as a place to live in general, rather than specifically how the Viennese treat tourists and one another.

“The general sense of friendliness comes from how clean, accessible, safe and culturally rich the city is,” she explained.

“Every city has its highlights, so it’s hard to compare. But Vienna’s quality of life is a stand-out factor. Rents are typically cheaper, with an emphasis on being outdoors and enjoying nature that’s on your doorstep. There’s great infrastructure and an affordable public transport system. The cuisine is based on farm-fresh and locally harvested ingredients, supporting local producers. The arts and music are a way of life; you are never short of cultural events to attend.”

Despite being home to over a fifth of Austria’s nine million-person population, Becki has found the pace of life in Vienna to be calm. “It’s not a chaotic metropolis; things move at a much slower pace here. This slower pace is a blessing in some aspects of life, though it may require patience in others.”

The city is also green – both in the environmental and literal sense. The public transport system is extensive and cheap for all. Children under six travel for free, as do youth up to 15 years old during the school holidays and on Sundays. A raft of similar other initiatives has seen Vienna ranked as the “greenest” metropolis in the world.

It’s also covered in parks, which may be the secret to the city’s new friendly reputation. Studies have shown that access to vegetation-rich parks and increases both happiness and productivity, especially following the coronavirus pandemic.

“Half of Vienna is green space,” Becki continued.

“There are free-to-enter palace gardens (Schönbrunn and Belvedere). In the centre, you have the Hofburg castle lawns and the city’s first public park, Stadtpark (which opened in 1862). Across the Danube, you have the largest recreational park, Prater (a former imperial hunting ground), best known for its Würstelprater fairground.

“Vienna is also the only European city growing significant amounts of wine in its city limits, so you can easily jump on public transport and be at a vineyard, or take one of the city’s 14 hiking trails, many of which track through the circumambient Vienna Woods.”

When it comes to hanging out in the sunnier months, such as July, when the average daily high is 27 °C, the riverbank is the place to go.

“While you can’t swim in the Danube, Vienna makes the most of its waterside hangouts. The Danube Canal is lined with bars and boat restaurants and the beach bar (Strandbar Herrmann). The banks of the Danube tributaries are the warmer-weather recreational hangouts,” Becki continued.

“The Neue Donau (New Danube) riverfront has a sand bank recreational hangout Copa Beach. The Alte Donau (Old Danube) is where you can hire pedal and motor boats or SUP on the waters. It’s also home to the recreational island, Strandbad Gänsehäufel, with swimming pools, bathing lawns, a little beach area and restaurants. Then you have the Donauinsel (Danube Island), which hosts a free music festival each June, the Donauinselfest.”

As pleasant as relaxing by the water and in the parks may be, come the evening, it’s time to head inside for a bite and a drink. Becki recommends Leopoldstadt, especially the area of the Karmeliterviertel that spills around the food market, for “casual-cool and indie hangouts” and the recently trendy Beisl pub, contemporary restaurant Skopik and Lohn for schnitzel.

“The districts that spread from the well-known Naschmarkt are what I would say are the grungy-trendy downtown areas, with boutique, upcycled and second-hand stores and a great spread of nightlife. The most well-known neighbourhood here is the Freihausviertel in the 4th (next to the Karlskirche) – home to the city’s generational cafe concept, Vollpension,” she continued.

“The 7th district is the most bougie and creative – one of my favourite bars is Atlas, a Beisl- turned-gastropub spalshed with art, and which features an art-gallery space at the back. In the 9th district, the Servitenviertel neighbourhood is dubbed ‘Little Paris’ and is lined with food outlets – I’d start at the converted pharmacy turned bakery, La Mercerie for a coffee and pastry.”

There are two main ways to get to Vienna from the UK. A train from London to the city typically takes 13 to 17 hours and requires two changes, as there are, unfortunately, no direct services. The journey involves operators like Eurostar, TGV, and ICE or ÖBB, with services running from London St Pancras International to Vienna Hbf.

There are direct flights from airports in Manchester, Newcastle, Birmingham, London, Liverpool and Edinburgh, which take between two and two and a half hours, and are available for from £15 this month.

I took to the slopes for the first time in the glorious Saalbach-Hinterglemm, Austria, and was left wondering why I’d waited so long to try skiing – but one piece of advice was useless

When I excitedly told friends I was off to Austria to ski for the very first time, nearly 30 years into my life, the seasoned skiers among them looked a little nervous. “It’s definitely easier to learn when you’re younger,” they warned me.

So I immediately did what any late millennial would do, and took to TikTok in the hope of becoming a pro skier without ever having set foot on the slopes. In the weeks leading up to the trip, I spent every spare minute watching ski instructors share their tips for beginners, before practising the techniques – static – in my living room.

However, it all began to feel very real when we arrived in Saalbach-Hinterglemm in the heart of the Austrian Alps, where the Alpine Ski World Championships were held back in February

We checked in to the uber-modern Wiesergut, a ski in, ski out hotel built on the site of a 14th-century manor, which looks like something straight out of Architectural Digest.

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My spacious bedroom exuded understated urban chic, with a soaring double-height ceiling, floor-to-ceiling windows and a sophisticated mix of natural materials like wood, stone and linen. Luxurious Aesop toiletries lined the bathroom shelves and, to my delight, there was even a Dyson Airwrap for fixing up soggy helmet hair. The room also came with its own fireplace and a hot tub.

I couldn’t get my skiwear on fast enough but, once dressed, I took one look in the mirror and felt like an imposter. Staring back at me was the definition of “all the gear, no idea”. Luckily, there was another newbie in the group and the pair of us headed out for a lesson on the baby slopes, just a stone’s throw away from Weisergut.

I quickly discovered that my TikTok ski lessons had taught me next to nothing, but soon got to grips with finding my balance, turning and slowing down – very important in order to avoid any Paltrow-esque ski crashes.

After two hours of “pizza and French frying” our way down the baby slopes, we’d certainly worked up an appetite, and 1,500 metres up Reiterkogel mountain, Wieseralm provided the perfect location to refuel. A sister to the Weisergut, the mountain restaurant offers alpine classics such as Kaiserschmarrn, cheese dumplings and Viennese schnitzel. We were treated to a host of other decadent delights including truffle carbonara, buttery mash, fillet steak and king prawns.

Each time we thought we were done, the servers brought out another course, each as impressive as the last, and they made sure our wine glasses were never empty. Forget skiing backdown the mountain – we could have just rolled down.

Some 30km away, nestled in the beautiful Leoganger mountain range, sits Priesteregg, a five-star eco resort with its own picturesque mountain village.

Sixteen charming chalets are dotted on a steep hillside, each adorned with scarlet geraniums in the window boxes, wooden deckchairs softened with sheepskin throws, flickering candles and log fires waiting to be lit.

Smiling girls in floral dirndls welcomed me with a hot coffee before I headed to the Priesteregg BAD (spa) for wellness treatments.

I went for a swim in the Himmelbecken, an outdoor infinity pool that offers a magnificent view of the Hochkönig mountain, before taking part in a yoga class on the terrace over looking it. The yoga instructor then took us through an incredible guided breathing session using the Wim Hof method in preparation for a cold plunge at the Naturbecken pool.

To my surprise, I enjoyed every second of the dip, and barely noticed the cold even as I climbed out into the rain. I don’t know if this was the effect of the breathwork, or if the breathtaking scenery simply offered the perfect distraction from the discomfort.

I’ve never slept more soundly than I did in my bedroom at the chalet. Situated on a high plateau facing the mountains, the chalets offer stunning views, including a glimpse of the nearby luminescent man-made glacial lake.

It’s hard to imagine a more indulgent start to the day than the Priesteregg breakfast, served in your chalet. You wake to the soft sounds of quiet preparation, and when you step into the living space, it has all been laid out – candles lit, coffee brewing and the table laden with platters of local ham and cheese, fresh fruit, yoghurt and still-warm breads and pastries. All that’s left for you to do is cook the eggs and bacon, if you fancy it.

The nearby town of Leogang is worth exploring, including Mama Thresl – Priesteregg’s cooler, more casual sister hotel – which provides easy access to the gondola for those wanting to ski or snowboard. But given Priesteregg’s panoramic mountain views, one-of-a-kind wellness area, incredible on-site cuisine and warm Austrian hospitality, it’s a wonder anyone would leave.

How to book

Rooms at Priesteregg Premium Eco Resort (priesteregg.at/en)start from £296 B&B per person, per night in a Berg MountainChalet (based on two sharing).

Rooms at Wiesergut (wiesergut.com) start from £332B&B per room, per night in a Manor Suite Bliss.

Rooms at MamaThresl (mama-thresl.com) start from £170B&B per room, for two people in a Wooden style double room.

‘You’re mad!” Caroline the greengrocer said cheerfully when I told her I was going skiing. A reasonable reaction since not so long ago I was shopping on crutches following a hip replacement. My sister’s friends were more concerned: “How old are you? 80? I don’t think this is a good idea. You’ll fall and break something.” My brother, Andrew, 86, decided it was better not to tell anyone.

For at least two decades I’d had a half-buried wish to experience one more ski trip. A final fix of blue sky, frosty air and the exhilaration that comes with finding yourself still intact at the bottom of a snow-covered slope. I was never much good, and hadn’t skied for decades, but that wasn’t the point. At 83, I needed to see if I could still do it. And if I could do it, how about inviting my sister, Kate, one-third of our Old Crones group who encourage each other to do parkrun each week? Then I remembered that, as teenagers, Andrew had joined me on my first ski holiday. That was 67 years ago, but Andrew used to be quite good, so I invited him too. My friend Penny, who is so absurdly young (67, so she says) that she doesn’t really count, was also allowed to come and try her luck with the oldies and practise her German. We all made an effort to get as fit as possible, but none of us had skied for at least 40 years.