I visited the English seaside town that’s better in autumn with London-worthy restaurants and new hotels

THERE is something to be said for an English seaside trip in autumn, when all the crowds have gone home.

And historic Broadstairs in Kent is certainly one of the UK’s finest coastal spots.

The beach town was loved by Charles Dickens, who called it the “freshest and freest little place in the world”.

However, it has come a long way since the author visited, with trendy new bars and hotels springing up.

I tied my windswept hair back and ventured into the bracing sea air of Viking Bay, Broadstairs’ main sandy beach.

Due to the time of year I was joined by just locals — and their dogs rolling in the sand — as well as sailing teachers and their students.

You can’t come to the coast without trying the fish and chips, and some of the best is dished up at The Mermaid.

“Phwoah, shall we get some?” I heard a passer-by say as they ogled my overflowing portion.

I should have offered them some of mine as I had to admit defeat halfway through.

The seaside town is pint-sized and walkable, with both the Dickens House Museum and The Charles Dickens pub right beside each other.

The museum is housed in the cottage that inspired the home of Betsey Trotwood, the great-aunt of David Copperfield in Dickens’ novel of the same name.

It is only open from April to the end of October.

But time it right and you could experience a real-life Christmas Carol, with it reopening for a number of festive weekends in December, alongside live music and crafts.

And while you can’t go inside Dickens’ former holiday home Bleak House, you can enjoy it from the outside when it opens to the public for the monthly farmers’ market.

The town’s pretty high street is also a step back in time, with a quaint mix of old-school butchers and gift shops alongside modern coffee places.

My bag quickly became heavy after giving into the temptation to shop, stocking up on early Christmas presents and trinkets.

With the nights drawing in even earlier, dinner came round all too quickly.

And one of the best spots in town for a bite is Bar Ingo.

Opened in 2024, the tiny restaurant is a cosy affair — just five tables crammed against steamed-up windows. But it is worth the squeeze.

Bohemian auntie

It’s run by Swedish chef Tomas Eriksson, who once worked in the kitchens of celebrity-loved Soho House in London.

I gorged on small plates of rich braised beef, juicy octopus and crispy ham croquettes, alongside a glass of Portuguese orange wine.

It’s a place where you end up chatting to your table neighbour after they spot you eyeing up one of their dishes.

I had never been so grateful that my bed was just a few yards away.

Smiths Townhouse is one of the newest spots on the block, originally a coffee shop before reopening as a boutique hotel last month.

The six bedrooms take up most of the space in the pretty converted Georgian building. Each one feels like it’s been decorated by your bohemian auntie.

Think antique rugs and mid-century beds (one of which is rumoured to have been owned by Elton John).

The rooms are intimate and chic, with dark blue walls and floorboards that creak underfoot while padding over to make a cup of tea.

It’s tucked down a side road off the main high street, which means you’ll get a blissfully uninterrupted night of sleep.

I awoke to the smell of freshly brewed coffee coming from the downstairs cafe.

I thought I’d woken up early but I came down to find it already full of locals chatting about their night out over full English breakfasts and toasties.

The hotel has big plans for the future too, including an on-site bar, DJ sessions and a Pilates studio.

If you’re visiting during the summer, Broadstairs always has so much to offer, with big events including the Dickens Festival in June and Folk Week in August.

But for some bracing sea air, Michelin-worthy restaurants and stylish new hotels without the crowds? Maybe a trip is the best saved for an October weekend.

I get why ol’ Charlie sung its praises . . .