How to plan an extraordinary bikepacking trip across Catalina Island

As I fell asleep in a tent to the sounds of waves crashing on the beach and no cell phone service anywhere in the vicinity, I thought, this is the respite I needed. That is, until the wee hours of the morning when I heard something rumbling.

I slowly unzipped the tent door, poked my head out and saw it: a lone bison head-butting a picnic table, lifting one end into the air with alarming ease. I quickly snuck back into my hideaway and stayed quiet, listening to the gnarled sounds of this massive animal grazing just feet away from me.

The experience of bikepacking around Catalina Island was more than I had expected — both in its natural beauty and in its surprises. Within two days, 40-plus miles and some 5,000 feet of elevation, I was gobsmacked by the vistas, the morning light on the canyons and the solitude on the campground — aside from the abundant wildlife.

While not an “easy” trip (did I mention 5,000 feet in elevation?), the route from Catalina’s East End to Little Harbor and back to Avalon is one I’d recommend to both experienced adventurers and those newer to bikepacking, a blend of cycling and backpacking. It just requires some planning. Here’s what you should know, from getting your bike pass to planning out your stops.

Before the trip

Make your bicycle, camping and Catalina Express reservations

All cyclists on Catalina Island must have a Freewheeler Bike Pass, which can be obtained by purchasing a Catalina Island Conservancy membership. The cheapest $50 membership gets you one bike pass for the year, along with free admission to the Wrigley Memorial & Botanic Garden, discounts on Catalina Island campsites and other perks.

Once you have a pass, you must book a reservation to ride on Conservancy land. (You’ll get your physical bike pass when you arrive on Avalon and visit the Trailhead Visitor Center or Two Harbors Visitor Services.)

Camping reservations are also made through the Catalina Island Conservancy website. I reserved one night at Little Harbor Campground, but if I were to do it again, I would book two nights.

To get to and from Catalina, take the Catalina Express, which runs multiple trips a day from three locations in the Los Angeles area. When purchasing your ticket, you’ll pay a separate “additional article” fee to bring your bike onto the ferry.

What to pack

Your bike. I decided to bring my Surly Pugsley fat bike simply because I love my state of mind when I’m on it. I feel like I’m going with the flow, stopping and taking pictures and having a good time. Time is not of the essence. A gravel or mountain bike will work fine on Catalina. E-bikes with pedals are also permitted and hard-shelled helmets are required for all bikers.

Bikepacking bags, a sleeping pad and sleeping bag. Just note that you’re allowed two pieces of luggage on the Catalina Express.

Clothes. Bring whatever you like to ride in and sleep in at night. I’d suggest a light puffy jacket if there’s no rain in the forecast, and pants and thermal leggings to keep the chill off. If rain is expected, pack appropriately, but also know that the Conservancy does shut down the trails and roads if the conditions seem dangerous.

Food. Sustenance for an overnighter can be covered by using the Airport in the Sky Restaurant near the Catalina Airport as a feed station. You can also fill your water containers there. Have a nice-sized meal at the café and buy what you need to eat while on your bike. I had the café pack me a sandwich for camping that evening. You can also bring food supplies with you or stop by Vons on the island to get what you need. At Little Harbor Campground, there is potable water, along with Porta Potties and cold showers.

Note: Fuel canisters/containers are not permitted on the Catalina Express. When you arrive on Avalon, Chet’s Hardware offers small canisters. If you buy one and do not end up using it, they will allow you to return it if the seal is intact. I ended up not using my stove. Overnight oats and cold instant coffee got me going.

My bikepacking journey — and what you might expect

Day one

I woke in Avalon and pedaled my fat bike along Pebbly Beach Road to the turnoff for Wrigley Road. Climbing up Wrigley, I turned left on Renton Road, going around the gate and ascending up the remote double track. I had not seen another person for quite a while as I biked deeper into the hinterlands of the island, connecting to East End Light Road. Along the “backside” of the southern end of Catalina, it felt even more remote. East End afforded stunning views of the ocean and San Clemente Island to the south.

East End Road met up with Divide Road, as the trail map showed. The ocean sparkled in the distance, little crystals dancing on its surface. I scanned for whales but didn’t see any this time.

Divide Road merged with the Airport Road at the Wrigley Reservoir, which was empty of water. There was a slight challenge here, though, in that I came to a chain-link fence with an opening for people to step through. Luckily, a touring group in an open-air truck was going by and the driver pointed out that I could walk around the fence to the right, where there was a clear path to do so.

The Airport in the Sky was my lunch destination. My wife took a shuttle bus from the Conservancy to the airport and met up with me. After lunch, I set out from the airport on the mostly six-mile descent to Little Harbor campground. El Rancho Escondido Road had a bump or two along the way, breaking up the downhill riding with a little climbing. I turned right onto Little Harbor Road and made my way to my campsite. My tent set up and food safely stored in the provided metal boxes, I went over to the tiny beach and sat on a driftwood log, relaxing under the sun’s warm rays.

In the middle of the night, as I mentioned above, a lone bison visited my campsite. Thankfully, nothing happened to me (other than not getting much sleep from that point on to sunrise) but Catalina Island officials warn visitors that there is no safe distance away from the large animal. “Never approach, touch or attempt to feed bison. If you feel threatened, identify an escape route,” the Conservancy states. “Place a large object between you and the bison (tree, rock, vehicle), and give the bison a path to avoid you.”

Day two

From the campground the next morning, I went around to Middle Ranch Road. More stunning views of the Pacific marked the first few miles as I climbed, then descended, and climbed some more. It was somewhere around 8:30 in the morning and it felt like I had the entire place to myself.

Eventually, Middle Ranch turned inland. The terrain was gradual in its ascent and once I reached Quail Valley and Middle Ranch, the recently graded road was fast hardpack that allowed for cranking away the miles. I was big-ringin’ it and cruising. Getting into a pedaling cadence was great.

Middle Ranch met up with Airport Road, where I turned right and pedaled to Stagecoach Road. Stagecoach descended to Avalon, the hard road quickly dropping with forever views of the big blue ocean.

My overnighter came to a close and I thought of moments during both days when I was by stunned by the beauty that surrounded me — I was even able to see snowcapped San Gorgonio back on the mainland. I thought of friends that I wanted to bring along next time. Yes, no doubt, there will be a next time.