YOU have probably heard of Sutton Hoo, the Suffolk site where a huge Anglo-Saxon ship was discovered under ancient grassy mounds.
Excitement around the medieval treasure trove grew in 2021 when Carey Mulligan starred in a Netflix movie about the discovery, The Dig.
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But it’s not just ancient artefacts, old textiles and traditional silverware that make this area so special.
The site sits close to Woodbridge, an off-grid market town on the banks of the River Deben that was recently crowned the UK’s happiest place to live by Rightmove.
Having spent a weekend soaking up its moreish cocktail of history, gorgeous views and cracking food — including one of the best pizzas I’ve ever had — I’m inclined to agree.
It was a short trip for me and my partner across the Essex/Suffolk border, where we checked into one of Woodbridge’s best-known hotels, The Crown.
The charming inn features ten comfortable boutique rooms, with enormous beds and grand panelled bathtubs.
The property’s position, smack bang on the thoroughfare of the town, is perfect for soaking up the best Woodbridge has to offer, within walking distance of a high street scattered with independent shops.
Swing by The W Gallery if you get a chance.
We were captivated by a huge canvas of an avenue of neon orange trees by artist Samuel Thomas.
A few doors down, at Bois Jolie, the owner explained how he went from market researcher to owning his own woodcraft business.
Now, rather than staring at spreadsheets and pie charts, he spends his time creating interesting coffee tables and beautifully grained yew lamp stands, topped by his wife’s colourful handmade shades.
If we weren’t convinced before, we certainly were after that: Woodbridge really is a town of happy people — and they love to chat.
We had made sure we were well fuelled for our first day of adventure with a huge brekkie of juicy local sausages and perfectly poached eggs at the hotel.
Make sure you book in here for dinner one night, too.
The Crown’s restaurant and bar are buzzing with locals on a Saturday night.
If you ever tire of the hotel’s jam-packed burgers, fish and chips and flavoursome salads, you won’t need to venture far for a decent meal in Woodbridge.
I recommend The Woodyard Ltd, where the air was thick with the lip-smacking scent of smoke and garlic.
Its wood-fired pizzas are something special and we were grateful for our cold beers after devouring a Vesuvio — all charred dough, spicy nduja sausage and fiery salami.
The queue for tables stretched out of the door and, after eating, it was easy to see why.
The Anchor proved the perfect spot for a relaxed Sunday roast.
My plate came piled high with pork, doused in a stock-rich gravy that was so good I would have happily drunk it from a mug.
Once we were finished feasting, we walked it off along Woodbridge’s River Deben and the marina, where hundreds of colourful boats are moored.
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Take a peek at the tide mill on your wander.
The Grade I listed mill is one of the few remaining in the country and has a history stretching back 800 years.
We then made our way towards Kyson Hill, where the sun-drenched river is framed by salt marshes and ancient woodland.
This National Trust area is full of wildlife and we spotted a heron motionless at the water’s edge while, in the distance, deer darted between the trees.
While we didn’t get the chance to visit the mounds of Sutton Hoo itself on the other side of the river, its connection to the town is deepening.
It’s thought the ship and its treasure were hauled three miles up to the burial site from Woodbridge in the 7th Century, and now a community-led project is rebuilding the ancient craft in all its 90ft glory.
The locals are brilliantly enthusiastic about the mission, and you can take a look at the impressive work in progress in The Longshed.
After a weekend of eating, walking and soaking up the charm of this riverside town and all its history, I reckon Woodbridge is quite possibly the happiest place to live in the UK.
And it’s just as great to visit.
It may even feature frequently on my property searches . . .